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Citroen Relay clutch pedal with no pressure stuck to floor position, any help?

As I was driving I went to change gear the clutch pedal stuck in the down position.The vehicle was in gear and continued to drive. When I looked under the engine there was fluid which appeared to have come from the relief nipple on the slave cylinder adjacent to the gear box. The fluid level in the fluid reservoir was still at the correct level. I managed to get the vehicle in 1st gear with engine switched off. I then started the engine as i was on a downwards slope i managed to drive the vehicle a short distance to get me home in first gear. I have already had a new clutch fitted to the vehicle as it failed after 30,000 miles. The vehicle has now done 50,000 miles can anyone shed any light. I need the vehicle to be able to work. Is it something that I could repair if only to be able to drive it to a local garage for a professional repair.

Posted by Prestige Tyres 2 U on


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Randy Ohler

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Always have the master and slave replaced at the same time the clutch is replaced. Most clutch kits come with a slave. If you see no oil leaks, replace the master. Sometimes a seal or line blows out. Check for oil leaks inside the cabin also.

Posted on Jul 25, 2015

Testimonial: "Checked for any fluid leaks from the pedal, at the master cylinder, following pipe work down to the slave cylinder at the bottom off the engine / gearbox. This is located just behind the intercooler. Found that fluid had been forced out of the nipple which is part of the plastic slave cylinder body. Removed slave which is mounted with two 13mm head bolts. Removed clip that from inlet pipe and then sealed end of pipe to stop any fluid leaking. The piston for the slave appeared not to be a very smooth action when forced in and out by hand. Removed rubber boot that covers piston rod and found that the rod was pitted and a little rusty. Cleaned with a fine piece of wet and dry. Cleaned slave body with WD40 . Refitted to mounting and reconnected inlet pipe. Checked fluid level was topped up. Pressed clutch pedal 3 to 4 times then checked & topped up fluid level. Repeated this process several times until correct pressure was felt at the pedal. It is important to check the fluid level regularly. It would have been a little easier and faster if there was a second person to help. But it is possible to do the job or your own. Thanks for the advice was very helpful."


Edrees Dami

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Grease after use

Posted on Sep 24, 2015


Christopher LaRochelle

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Remember to grease.

Posted on Sep 18, 2015

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1 Answer

Having trouble going into 4 wheel drive in a 1998 ford ranger xlt

The transfer case (7A195) is equipped with a magnetic clutch, similar to an air conditioning compressor clutch, which is located inside the transfer case adjacent to the lockup sleeve. The clutch is used to spin up the front drive system from zero to vehicle speed in milliseconds. This spin-up allows the shift between 2H and 4H to be made at vehicle speeds listed in the vehicle owner's guide. The spin-up engages the front lock hubs. When the transfer case rear and front output shaft reach synchronous speed, the spring-loaded shift collar mechanically engages the mainshaft lockup hub to the chain-drive sprocket and the magnetic clutch is then deactivated. Shifts between 4H and 4L can only occur with the transmission safety switches closed. The vehicle's speed must also be within specified limits as determined by the Generic Electronic Module (GEM).
The electronic shift control system consists of a rotary switch control system, a GEM, a transfer case shift motor (7G360) with an integral shift position sensor, a clutch pedal position switch or digital transmission range (DTR) sensor, and a brake signal input switch.
There is a control switch located on the instrument panel for fingertip shift control.

Switch Control System
When the switch on the instrument panel is turned, there is a one second delay, then the electronic control module verifies the transfer case positions (2H, 4H or 4L). Next, the GEM looks at the shift position sensor and the digital transmission range (DTR) sensor or clutch pedal position switch (depending on transmission type) and brake pedal switch. If all conditions are correct to allow the desired shift, the electronic control module will tell the transfer case shift motor to execute the shift. After the shift has been made and the transfer case shift motor is off, the control module again looks at the shift position sensor to make sure the proper shift has been accomplished. Finally, the dash indicator light on the control panel will be illuminated by a signal from the GEM indicating the desired shift has been completed.
The generic electronic module controls the operation of the transfer case in response to inputs to the rotary control by the vehicle operator, the shift position sensor, the transmission range sensor and the brake pedal switch.

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (9E731) generates an AC signal which is sent to the instrument cluster (10849). The signal is used as input to the powertrain control module (PCM) and the transmission control module (TCM).
Shift Position Sensor
The shift position sensor, an integral part of the electric shift motor, tells the GEM module the shift position of the transfer case.
Electric Shift Motor
The electric shift motor, mounted externally at the rear of the transfer case, drives a rotary helical cam which moves the 2W-4W shift fork and 4H-4L reduction shift fork to the selected vehicle drive position.

does it jump out of gear or just doesn't go into gear in the first place ?
  • 4-Wheel Drive Transfer Case Jumps Out of Gear
  • Incomplete shift linkage travel.
  • ADJUST linkage to provide complete gear engagement. ADJUST shift gearshift lever boot.
  • Loose mounting bolts.
  • TIGHTEN mounting bolts.
  • Front and rear driveshaft slip yokes dry or loose.
  • LUBRICATE and REPAIR slip yokes as required. TIGHTEN flange yoke attaching nut to specifications.
  • Internal components.
  • DISASSEMBLE transfer case. INSPECT sliding clutch hub and gear clutch teeth for damage. REPLACE as required.

Feb 13, 2018 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vehicle dies when downshifting to first gear and also makes a squeling noise

Manual Transmission

  1. 1
    Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.

  2. 2
    Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
  3. 3
    Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
  • 2
    Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
  • 3
    Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
  • 4
    Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
  • 5
    Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
  • EditTips for preventing transmission damages

    • Avoid prolonged driving by slipping the clutch.
    • Avoid jerks and jolts while driving.
    • Avoid "riding the clutch", i.e. needlessly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
    • Never use clutch slipping for regulating the speed of a heavy truck!
    • Make sure the clutch of a manual transmission is fully pressed when shifting
    • Do not use excessive force when shifting a manual.
    • For rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles, avoid driving through places at the minimum of the vehicle's clearance.

    • Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
    • Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
    • Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
    • Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
    • Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
    • The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
    • The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
    • The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
    • There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
    • Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.

    Aug 23, 2013 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

    1 Answer

    I was driving my manual 91 dodge stealth home when i went to shift into 4th gear the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor and stuck and now it doesnt like to go into gear with the clutch in but it...

    Clutch disk or pressure plate or both are worn out, and I would replace the throw out bearing. You can buy a kit at autozone or kragen that has everything all together 100-200 dollars.

    Aug 10, 2013 | 1991 Dodge Stealth

    1 Answer

    2001 grand vitara trys to move when clutch is down

    Hi Paul, Sounds as if you have a clutch problem. First thing to do is check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir. If it is low as I suspect, it must be leaking somewhere. The only places it can leak are from the master cylinder, slave cylinder or the pipe. Determine where the leakage is and attend to it. It very well may mean replacing one or both cylinders. Bleed the system by keeping the reservoir full at all times. (You will need the help of a friend) and then get under the vehicle and open the bleed nipple and let the fluid drip into a container until the flow has no bubbles. Close the nipple. Press the clutch pedal and if the pedal feels firm and does its job of disengaging the clutch, your done. If not pump the pedal twice and and tell your friend to get under (what are friends for?) With the pedal held flat to the floor, you say in a very load voice "Open, Close!" Pump twice again and continue until the clutch feels correct. If the clutch continues failing to disengage when fully depressed, try adjusting it. Look under the dash and at the top end of the pedal arm is an adjustable rod. loosen the locking nut and turn the rod, extending it until free play in the pedal is back to normal, a little under an inch. When finished do not change clothing, as you would like everyone to know that you are a super mechanic, and the same for your friend. Take a trip into town and buy two soda's (no booze while driving, but your friend can have.) Chat loudly about the job so everyone can hear you. If the plan works, we'll be here waiting to give more advise when you set up your repair shop. Best regards John

    Sep 14, 2012 | 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara

    1 Answer

    Clutch is smoking

    Depending on how old it is, I would say it has broken apart.
    You won't really know until you pull the trans.

    Aug 15, 2012 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

    1 Answer

    I was driving it and i pressed the brake and all of a sudden the brake pedal and clutch pedal both went down a piece by the pedal broke an now it wont go in to gear


    the Hydrolic clutch has failed by the sound of it, the clutch on his car shares fluid with the brakes hence why both pedals went down. you might be lucky and the slave cylinder might have failed or lost pressure, this in fact is very common on this car.

    Have the slave cylinder checked out and look under the car for any fluid leaks



    Jan 02, 2011 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    Clutch pedel stuck on floor

    The clutch master has blown out

    Jan 19, 2010 | 1990 Ford F250

    1 Answer

    Won't go into gear to drive. may be transmission?

    If the clutch has never been changed most likely it is that. The way you can check it is by removing the transmission and looking at the clutch disc. It could be transmission syncros but I am willing to bet you just need a new clutch.

    May 24, 2009 | 2001 Kia Sportage

    1 Answer


    To reduce clutch disc/plate problems, avoid riding the clutch whilst driving, ie having ur foot on the clutch pedal when the engine is in operation, especially wqhen the vehicle is in motion. You see the clutch disc is sandwiched between the flywheel of the engine & the pressure plate. When the driver presses the clutch pedal, the sandwiching of the clutch plate is released, so therefore no drive is being transmitted from the engine to the road wheels. This gives an effect as if the vehicle is in neutral (engine can be revved, with no movement or propulsion of the vehicle). When the driver releases the clutch pedal, the clutch disc is now sandwiched tightly causing the drive to be transmitted to the road wheels which will now cause the vehicle to be propelled.

    Clutch discs are only replaced when there are problemes with clutching in and changing gears. After constant pressing of the clutch, the asbestos material on the clutch disc after a period grinds down (clutch disc becomes thinner), which in turn will reduce friction characteristics when all the elements are sandwiched. This causes a slipping effect, preventing the drive from being transmitted to the road wheels efficiently. This causes other problems such as high fuel consumption, erratic engaging of gears, hard selecttion of gears, heavy vibration of the vehicle, stalling; just to name a few. In most cases an unusual smell of the clutch disc is observed.

    Also just by resting ur foot on the clutch pedal while engine is running can be dmagaing too. You see the clutch release bearing rests on the pressure plate, so when the clutch pedal is pressed by the driver, there is a degree of friction being placed on the bearing because the pressure plate is always rotating with the engine. The clutch release bearing is stationery until the clutch pedal is pressed by the driver, which sends it into the moving pressure plate, so less pressing on the clutch pedal the less friction between the bearing and the pressure plate. Only operate/press/place foot on the clutch when necessary

    Dec 30, 2008 | Hyundai Motor 1995 Accent

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