Changed break pads front and rear now break pedal goes to the floor even after pumping them.

bleed the brakes again starting at the longest line at the rear and work forward . The indication is still air in the lines.

I would inspect the brake booster for vacuum leak. When the booster is not working you get a hard pedal, yet when you start the vehicle the pedal will hit the floor because of the damaged diaphram inside the brake booster.

You've done major work and now you'll need to completely bleed air out of the system, to get the fluid to go all the way through. You may also need to adjust the rear brake shoes.

First, bleed the Master cylinder to get fluid through it. This should have been done before installation. Loosen the lines at the M. Cylinder and fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly with the cover on the M. Cylinder to prevent fluid from splashing out. Once you've got fluid coming through the M.Cylinder, tighten the brake lines at the M. Cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes is a 2 person operation. You always bleed the brake the farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, the next, and finally the drivers front brake which is the closest to the M. Cylinder.

If you are unfamiliar with this process, you need to remember that you can't let the brake fluid get low in the M. Cylinder, or you have to start all over when air gets back into the lines.

When one person pumps the brakes, after several pumps hold the pedal down as far as it will go and keep pressing to the floor as the other person loosens the bleeder valve. Don't let off of the pedal before tightening the bleeder valve. Then repeat until all of the air is gone.
Teamwork and communication. Both of my wives were able to assist me in bleeding brakes.

You will have to add fluid and repeat this process until you have a firm pedal.

One man bleeder valves work if used properly, but who tells you what is happening at the other end while you're pressing the pedal?

Good luck.

After you change brakes you need to bleed air from the brake lines what you need to do is find the bleeder valve its usually rite beside where the brake line goes in the calipers and looks like a grease fitting get someone to pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 times and hold it while someone else loosens the bleeder valve to drain the air out keep the pedal mashed until you get the bleeder valve tightend back up . Do each wheel until fluid comes out check brake fluid while doing this so it doesnt run out. Hope this helps

Start with brake in the rear that is the farthest away from the master cylinder ( if your master cylinder is on drivers side start with passenger rear,pump up brake pedal until hard have someone else open bleeder valve until air or fluid squirts out,while holding brake pressure even if goes to the floor dont release pedal until bleeder valve is tightened or you will **** air back into the line,do this several times making sure you get a full stream of brake fluid and no air,continue to other rear wheel and then proceed to front wheel furthest from master cylinderand then final wheel. if you still don't have brakes change master cylinder and bleed all brakes again.

YOU HAVE A BAD MASTER CYLINDER
HAVE IT REPLACED AHD YOU PROBLEM WILL GO AWAY

Hi:
If you have replaced all pads, and see no leaks at any wheel, and have bled your brake system, then most likely your brake master cylinder has failed.

Something doesn't sound right, you shouldn't have to remove the brake line to install pads. Did you have to do this on both sides? Do the new pads and the old pads look the same? Did you get the caliper on crooked? Just recheck your work first before replacing more parts. When you install the caliper, You have to hook the pad on one side first before you slide it over the rotor.

Have it towed to a trustworthy shop. If the pedal is hitting to floor there is more wrong than just the brake pads!!!

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?