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You need an inner tie rod tool!!!!!
Run down to auto-zone and rent one. It's like jumbo deep socket.
When you take off the outer
tie-rod make sure you count exactly how many revolutions to take it
off, then when you put it back juts recount the revolutions and get it
exactly the same. You shouldn't need to get another alignment. The tool
you can rent at autozone, it's like a long wrench that has just a plain
square box at the end you put in this rod thing that the tool comes
with and it reaches the inner tie-rod. You will need to take off part
number 25's jam nut first as it holds the inner tie-rod against the
outer tie-rod. There is a boot that covers up the inner tie-rod end too
you will need to grease up that boot really good before putting it back
over the inner tie-rod. There is a ring around both ends of the boot,
you will need either a ring separator or just pry it off and when
putting the boot back just put a zip tie around each end tight, that's
what I did cause i didn't have a ring separator. Also, there is a
chance if you have an old oem one that the tool can't get to it so you
can turn the wheel to move it out so you have more room. Mine was
stripped so I had to use some vice grips to get it off. There's also a
ring on the inside of the boot at a hose fitting, the other side of the
hose goes to the other inner tie-rod on the other side so that when you
turn the wheel air moves freely between both tie-rods.
webbraymond2, Yes, you have to remove the outer tie to access the inner tie rod. When you do this, count the rotations of the tie rod as this will have to be replaced when the new inner tie rod is installed. Counting the rotations will allow you to put the outer tie rod close to where it was when you started the job. You are changing the toe setting when you have to replace either the inner or outer tie rod. You need to access and remove the jamb nut and boot before you can access the inner tie rod and this is why the outer needs to be removed first. A wheel alignment is advised after you finish the job. Good luck with this.
You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned
Real simple, assuming you know how to take the outer tie rods off. You have to take the clip that holds the plastic boot on off, then slide back the plastic boot, and you'll be able to unscrew the whole inner tie rod assembly. The hardest part of the whole process is installing the new ones to the exact settings of the old ones
Yes degreaser will not hurt it. The outer tie rod is retained only by one nut that connects it to the inner tie rod.Once you have this loosen just turn the outer tie rod to the left to remove it from the inner tie rod.
222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.
There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
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You need a special tool that slides over the inner tie rod after removing the outer ones.make sure you count the turns to remove the outer tie rods so the alignment will be close. You will need to have it aligned after the repair.
you must remove or slide the inner tie rod boot outward on the rod and then thread the tie rod out of the steering rack. there is a section of the tie rod on the inside of the ball joint that has flat spots to get a open end wrench onto. to check your tie rods, simply jack the wheel off of the ground, grab the either side of the tire, and wiggle it towards and away from you. if you feel any play at all the tie rods must be replaced. also a god indication is when the front tires start to wear excessivly on the inside or outside edges.
as for the cv axle, it has a retainer ring on the end of the splined shaft. all thats reqired is to seat the splines in the transaxle (transmission) and the tap (shouldnt take too much) the outer end of the axle with a mallet or hammer. it will pop into place.
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