Question about Cars & Trucks
You need a "cherry picker" to lift the engine. Wrenches. Screwdrivers.
while you're there, consider replacing all the hoses and vacuum lines. When disconnecting hoses and such, make a note of where they come from, so you can get them back on correctly.
Consider also replacing sparkplug wires, if you've not done that already.
Depending on your replacement engine, it may or may not have "accessories" attached, like water pump, starter, alternator. Be prepared to move those from your old engine.
Get a new fanbelt, again, while you're there.
Best advice I can offer you is to get help. Somebody to help you get the old one out, and the new one in. I won't do an engine myself, but with a helper, it's a lot easier.
Have a set of jack stands, you may need to go under the car, and don't do that on jacks. That's how you get killed.
Posted on Jun 08, 2015
Floor jack, jack stands, cherry picker, common sense, mechanical ability, basic hand tools, service manual helps.
Posted on Jun 08, 2015
Normally, the fan will not spin at the same RPM as the engine. This is
the purpose of the fan clutch. On the fan clutch sits a little thermal
spring that engages the clutch to spin the fan at the same rpm as the
motor when the motor gets hotter than normal.
Being able to hold onto the fan while the motor is running, is normal (not recommended, but normal).
You can test the clutch by heating it and then trying to spin the fan while the motor is off. If it is still easy to spin, you could have a bad fan clutch, or you didn't heat it enough. It is kind of a crappy way to test.
You not having cooling issues leads me to guess that your clutch is alright. But I don't know what type of climate you live it, nor do I know in what condition your clutch is.
They can actually be difficult to replace. Easy theory, but actually doing the job may be harder than you think. They are threaded onto the water pump pulley (just one big threaded stud). To remove you need to either be really crafty, or you need a wrench designed to hold the pulley in place while you loosen the clutch and fan assembly. No, the pulley drive belt is not enough to keep the pulley from turning (it will either slip or you will turn the crank of the motor).
Usually they are on there pretty tight! When I replaced my water pump on my truck, I could not remove the fand and clutch from the water pump while in the truck (I had to remove my radiator shroud and remove it all in one piece) then I had to weld the old water pump impeller to the casting to keep it from spinning then broke it loose with a 2ft breaker bar! Seriously.
Once you get the old one off, remove the fan and bolt it to your new clutch unit. Then thread it on the water pump.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.
Posted on May 02, 2009
Check out this link... better than a diagram, a photo.
note: on my screen this guy's "purple" circle looks more like a light blue, maybe lavender.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
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