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Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.
Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.
The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.
dot 4 brake fluid is suitable to top up all dot specified brake fluids
the dot fluids are glycol based fluids are are used widely in the transport industry
the are controlled standards issue by the department of transport (DOT) your car will not be using dot 5 fluid
the main differences between the dot standards is the boiling points of the fluids
for example dot 3 wet boiling point is 140c-284f
dot 4------------------------------------------155c-311f
dot5--------------------------------------------180c-356f
dot5.1------------------------------------------190c-374f
a brake fluid compatibility chart shows the following
dot 3 with dot 3, dot 4 NOT dot 5 , dot 5.1
dot 4 compatible with dot3 dot4 NOT dot5 , dot 5.1
dot 5 Not Compatible with dot3,dot4, dot5.1
dot5.1 compatible with dot 3,dot4 dot5.1 not compatible with dot5
refe to site epicbleedsolutions.com for references
for any other information as to why boiling points are the main factors and why brake fluid should be changed on a regular basis go google and type in ---brake fluid dot specifications and compatibility--- and there are many informative sites available
Fill with brake fluid and plug off holes ( new cylinder should come with plastic plugs ) and push on piston with suitable tool ( screwdriver ) until no more bubbles are present in fluid. Sometimes all the air cannot be released and can be re-bled when installed by pumping the brake pedal and holding pressure on it while someone cracks open the fitting. This is done to all fittings until only fluid comes out
It's a two-person job. First, locate the bleeder valves on your brake calipers. Some turn in to open, and some turn out to open. Attach a suitable hose (preferably clear) to the end of the valve, and direct it to a suitable container. Have someone apply and hold the brake pedal down. Turn the valve with a wrench to open it and let any air or bubbles come out. Turn the valve to close it, and then tell your assistant to let up on the brake pedal. Repeat this process until you get only fluid coming out of the valve. Do this procedure to each brake caliper. Remember to monitor the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir, otherwise you'll just end up pumping more air into the brake line system. It's not a complex process, just time consuming and potentially messy with the brake fluid.
Sounds like you need a new Master cylinder. Thats the metal part under (attached too) where you check the brake fluid.
In brief...First, you need to remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible and disconnect the fluid level sensor if the car has one...THEN you disconnect the brake lines. Once you remove the master cylinder, you drain the remaining fluid in a suitable container.You also got to take out the reservoir (tank) from the old cylinder and install it on the new one. Also, you?»¿ would be advised to use a torque wrench when mounting the new master cylinder to the firewall and tighten the fasteners to that car's torque specs. Then bleed the air out of the entire system.
Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
Remove brake drum. If brake drum cannot be remove easily, insert a suitable screwdriver through hole in backing plate, then push adjuster lever away from adjuster and back of adjustment tension.
Remove shoe return spring, using suitable tool, then remove return spring clamp, Fig. 6.
any aftermarket brake fluid will be fine. the actual grade is located on the top of the fluid cap. you can find the universal grade at your local auto parts shop.
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