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Re: about a rear hatch not opening
Those pads are junk. They are not weather protected. They corrode badly. I believe on yours, you have to got to the back and at the bottom of the hatch panel there is a round plug you can pop out. Insert a screw drive. You will have to catch the release and move it left or right to release the hatch. Once open look at the rubber. There are two screws to remove and replace the controller.
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Rear hatch is locked or unlocked with a key. (if equipped) • To open the rear hatch, insert the key into the lock, turn it to the unlock position and pull up the rear hatch by pressing the handle (DOOR). You can also lock/unlock the latch (but not release it) with the central door lock system. • If unlocked, the rear hatch can be opened by pressing the handle (DOOR) and pulling the hatch up. • To close the rear hatch, lower and push down the rear hatch firmly. Make sure that the rear hatch is securely latched.
I had similar problem and it sounds like a short, and a fuse is blown. Check your rubber wire housing at upper corners of rear hatch, in cold weather the rubber gets hard and comes away from hatch frame, and hard to notice, but what happens is wires rub on metal opening and short out. It took a couple fuses to figure out a short had to be problem, and sure enough, the hot lead was being grounded, so taped it up, reseated the rubber junction which is suppose to prevent shorts, should be obvious to check as mine was easy to see problem, seems pass side is trouble for some reason as I have helped others, and always the same side.
Fixed this last week in my Cherokee Classic. I started by releasing the hatch catch from the the interior by manually placing a flat screwdriver (something flat) under the catch, pulling the door inward, and letting the hatch open. From here unscrew all screws around the interior panel including the 2 screws under the rubber caps that mount the interior pull handle. Then carefully pull the panel, one section at a time, (carefully...this plastic is cheap) until all panel clips are free and the panel is removed. At this point you will see the inner mechanics of your door latch. Pushing your key fob lock you will see what you have been hearing, and lifting the outside handle you will see what it is supposed to be doing. As you sit in the interior of the car and face the inside of the hatch door, on the drivers side of the latch mechanism you will see a small threaded rod that is attached to the latch mechanism and the catch on the bottom of the door. This threaded rod must be adjusted/returned to the proper setting in order to lift the door catch. This entire mechanism is so cheaply made that you could have something broken in it also....but after finding the aforementioned adjustment mechanism, I realized that it would not take much for this part to self destruct. Hope this helps!
you don't. take it into a Hyndai Dealership and have the handle repaired/replaced. The rear hatch panel/cover has to be removed (from inside the vehicle) to access the hatch latch and open the door.. from that point the handle can be replaced/repaired.
rear hatch is not related i dont think ,if vehicle is fitted with a non factory alarm rip it out they give nothing but problems,If its not fitted with a factory alarm then check wires where they leave the body in rubber trunking and go into door ,especially drivers door as its used most.Try hatch as well if no fault found in drivers door
No easy way to do this - you need to remove the inside door panel from inside the truck and manually release the lock. You didn't say where the wiring was burnt, but when the door is open test for power at the lock solenoid - if not there when unlock is pressed, inspect the wiring (particularly at the two rubber wire casings connecting the door to the frame). If it is there, the lock solenoid is stuck and may have to be replaced.