I recommend you get a professional diagnostic test performed. There are too many sensors that regulate that motor for me to guess. I despise when you take your vehicle to a shade tree mechanic and they start replacing unnecessary things trying to repair the problem and running up a large bill for the client. I could be one or more of many possible causes. Stopped up catalytic converter, bad Oxygen sensor, Manifold Air Pressure sensor, Mass Air Flow sensor, Fuel pump, fuel filter, stopped up fuel line, Rust clogging the intake screen in the fuel tank, Rotten vacuum line, distribuidor guts causing timing issues......just get a diagnostic test done and buy the right part the first time.
I would think its a fuel problem.
Try changeing the fuel filter and the air filter but just remove that for now .
The filter is in line drivers side under the drivers door area and is not easy to do but not expensive under 10 dollars .
When you get it off and have gas all over you don't smoke .
Take a plastic soda bottle put it over the line comeing from the tank put the key on run not start .This should make the fuel pump pump if an electric pump.The pump is mesaured IN FLOW PRE MIN and its high because it has return line to the tank if its fuel injection.
So if in 10 sec. 4 to 5 ounces out put the pump is vary good .
If not the pump isn't supplying enough fuel to the system
There are other issues like the fuel injection system and the pressure regulator.
I owen a similiar vehicle you just never what will go wromg NEXT .yet my 30 old ford ranger runs like a new vehicle I fix it of course
Testimonial: "I will try to replace fuel filter, and while it is now daylight again, check for any vacuum hoses leaking or cracked. And Go from there, I have always had a sneaky suspicion about the pressure regulator; because of the symptoms the the truck had before. Idling rough while in drive, and rpms bouncing anywhere between 500-700 rpms while my foot on brake. I wanted to do the simplest first (plugs and EGR valve). But for the truck to start drive better then about 15 min stall out then would not start again perplexed me."
"I will try to replace fuel filter, and while it is now daylight again, check for any vacuum hoses leaking or cracked. And Go from there, I have always had a sneaky suspicion about the pressure regulator; because of the symptoms the the truck had before. Idling rough while in drive, and rpms bouncing anywhere between 500-700 rpms while my foot on brake. I wanted to do the simplest first (plugs and EGR valve). But for the truck to start drive better then about 15 min stall out then would not start again perplexed me."
Replaced fuel filter, checked vaccum hoses, I'm getting spark and fuel but still no dice truck will not start
Yah Chris I know how much you must be haveing .But chage the fuel first and check the pump out put with the filter off make sure you are getting fuel to the engine .If the pressure reg is bad you will smell gas inside the vehicle and its cheaper to replace the whole injection system mine was about 300 $ with the regulatator seeing you have to take the intake manifold off anyway to get at it and the reg by it self is like 75$ it self . Their is 1 other thing you should check before pulling the manifold its the IAC ideal air control not the kind of thing that would through a code but directly controls intake air at idealits on the air horn r side behind the TPS ITS a stepper motor with some kind of composit rubber seal that tends get a carbon build up between it and the seat .However it wouldn't make a no start condution get rough ideal Let me know
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