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Vince Rietzke Posted on Mar 20, 2015
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The engine will run but will not rev-up and pull itself even jacked up with wheels off of ground. I removed the drive belt did not make much difference, it did finally rev-up but took a long time at full throttle, could it have something to do with the clutch on the engine

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Jeremy Nottingham

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  • Expert 193 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 04, 2015
Jeremy Nottingham
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Joined: Jul 21, 2009
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What kind of car is it? sounds like a clogged cat converter to me, tps sensor? mas air flow sensor? more info

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0helpful
1answer

How do i remove an oil pan off a 1998 ford 2 wheel drive with out pulling the engine

Remove the bolt that runs thru the engines motor mounts, not the ones that attach it to the engine block. Take a 2x4 and put it on a floor jack so the jack won't damage the front pulley. Raise the engine with the floor jack to get enough clearance to manuver the pan around the steering components once thw oil pan bolts have been removed. Watch the fan blades don't hit the radiator.
0helpful
1answer

Grinding/whining noise from gearbox/final drive - fiat 500C Lounge - 2010 model

I think removes the tyre both then check its gear box bearing noise or clutch plate bearing noise
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Belt diagram

try the internet web sites for belt ,there are 2 types dependent on engine ,if you thinking of changing timing belt you will nee to order a special timing kit ,to hold crank and fly wheel ,i have changed one o a 2.5 crd engine ,takes about 7 hours ,the other 2 belts are easy to replace ,just remove air filter housing ,jack engine up remove engine mount ,pulley wheel for belt can be seen ,need a spanner to hold nut on pulley wheel,pull it up to remove,ac belt is stretch fit ,so just pull it over ,using a screw driver .hope this helps you .
0helpful
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Replacing alternator

Instructions
    • Remove the negative battery cable from the battery by loosening the 8 mm terminal bolt until you can pull the cable from the battery. Position the cable so that it can not accidentally make contact with the battery terminal.
    • 2Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels using wheel chocks. Raise the front of the Escape until the wheels are off the ground and position jack stands under the front sub-frame.
    • 3
    • Remove the serpentine drive belt rotating the tensioner arm counterclockwise until the belt can be slipped from the pulley. Allow the belt to drop onto the remaining pulleys.
    • 4Slide under the vehicle and unplug the electrical connector plugged into the back of the alternator. Unbolt the main charging cable by removing the 13 mm nut that attaches it to the charging stud on the back of the alternator. Remove the 10 mm bolts that attach the alternator to the engine and lower the alternator to the ground.
    • 5Bolt the new alternator into place on the engine and torque the attaching bolts to 35 ft-lbs. using a torque wrench. This prevents distortion of the alternator housing, caused by over-tightening, and premature alternator failure. Attach the charge cable to the charge stud and tighten the 13 mm nut to 18 ft-lbs. to prevent damage to the internal wiring.
    • 6Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Reinstall the serpentine belt, and reconnect the battery cable. Start the engine and confirm that the alternator is charging.
0helpful
1answer

How to change the water pump on a ford festiva 1995

Drain all the coolant.Jack up the car on the front passenger side.Remove the passenger side wheel.Put a jack under the oil pan.Detach the engine mounts on the passenger side of the car.Remove all external belts.Remove the upper timing belt cover boltsLower the engine using the jack.Remove the water pump pulley. (3 bolts)Remove the upper timing belt cover.Disconnect the coolant line running across the front of the engine from the water pump. (2 bolts on a flange)Pull the timing belt.Pull the water pump.Installation is just reversed.
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How can i replace fan belt for a 2000 ford focus 16 v zetec and how the fan runs on polley?picture show.

      • Things You'll Need:
      • Wrench set
      • Jack
      • Jack stands
      • Socket set
      • Ratchet
      • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar


    1 Open the hood of your Focus and locate the negative battery cable at the battery. Loosen the clamp bolt on the battery cable end with a wrench, then lift the battery cable off the battery terminal. Isolate the battery cable from the battery terminals by tucking it off to one side.
  • 2

    Position a jack under the front of the car and raise it off the ground. Support the car with a set of jack stands, placing them under the front suspension. Lower the jack until the car is resting on the jack stands.

  • 3

    Locate the splash shield in the passenger's side wheel well and remove the two retaining bolts that secure it, using a socket and ratchet. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well and locate the serpentine belt tensioner through the access hole.

  • 4

    Insert the square drive of a ½-inch drive breaker bar into the square hole on the tensioner and rotate the tensioner counterclockwise, releasing the tension on the belt. Remove the belt from the pulleys and rotate the tensioner back to the home position.

  • 5

    Position a new belt in the engine compartment and run it around all of the pulleys except the tensioner's idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and then slide the belt under the idler pulley.

  • 6

    Slowly rotate the tensioner back to the home position, tightening the belt as you rotate it. Remove the breaker bar, then replace the splashguard in the wheel well. Install the two retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

  • 7

    Raise the front of the car off the jack stands with a jack, remove the stands from under the car, and lower the car to the ground. Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal and tighten the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench.

  • 1helpful
    1answer

    I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse w/ 2.0; I am going to change the water pump, took off the bracket that holds the engine to chassis support in front of timing cover. The bracket will not come off after...

    The engines have 2 timing belts: One belt is the acceleration timing belt that drives the camshaft from the crankshaft. This belt also drives a balance shaft that must be correctly timed to avoid engine vibration (more on this below). The second belt, inboard of the timing belt, is the drive belt for the oil pump and a second balance shaft. Although this belt usually does not break, it should be replaced whenever the timing belt is replaced.
    Tools Needed
    The following tools are needed as a minimum:
    Floor jack.
    Jack stands.
    Metric combination wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.
    Slotted & Phillips screwdrivers.
    Wheel lug wrench.
    Now the procedure is as follows:--
    Park the car on a level surface. Raise the front off the ground and secure with jack stands.
    Remove the drivers side front tire/wheel.
    Remove the plastic panel inside the wheel well. This panel is secured to the chassis with some 12mm head bolts up in the wheel well and along the front radiator cross-member. There are also some plastic push fasteners that look like Phillips screws: Unscrew and pull out the plastic screw, and then pop the plastic retainer out of the panel. Keep the panel and hardware together and set aside.
    Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan. Make sure you place it so that it does not damage the pan, or put some rags between the two. Raise the jack enough the support the engine.
    Remove the drivers side engine bracket. There are 2 (14mm) head nuts on the forward side, and 2 (14mm) head bolts at the other end of the bracket. Once unbolted, remove the 2 nuts securing the engine mount through-bolt to the chassis, and remove the through-bolt after removing its (17mm) retaining nut. Keep all this hardware with the bracket as you pull it out and set it all aside.
    Loosen the tension on the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor belts.
    Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
    Remove the harmonic balancer/pulley from the crankshaft by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
    Remove the air conditioning belt tensioner bracket/assembly on the 2.0 engines by removing the (3) 12mm attach bolts.
    FOR more detailed help:--
    Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Repair Guide 
    Engine
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    Relieve the fuel system pressure.
    If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
    If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
    Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
    Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and inter-cooler. 
    If equipped with AWD, remove the trans axle and transfer case. 
    Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
    If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
    Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
    Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
    Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
    Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
    0helpful
    1answer

    Saab 95 Aero

    Jack up o/s of car and support on stand
    Remove front o/s wheel

    remove bottom engine covers from inside o/s wheel arch and also bottom engine cover(plastic)

    support engine with jack; remove yolk engine mount ( on belt side)

    Put 1/2" extension drive into top of belt tensioner and pull toward engine - you can now put a 3mm drill bit or allen key into hole at side of tensioner to hold in position.

    remove serpentine belt

    from underneath car, use 8mm ( I think) allen key to remove centre bolt from belt tensioner

    It should now come off of the car

    fitting is the reverse of the above

    hope it helps


    1helpful
    1answer

    Water pump

    I don't have pictures for you but here is instructions:
    Drain all the coolant.
    Jack up the car on the front passenger side.
    Remove the passenger side wheel.
    Put a jack under the oil pan.
    Detach the engine mounts on the passenger side of the car.
    Remove all external belts.
    Remove the upper timing belt cover bolts
    Lower the engine using the jack.
    Remove the water pump pulley. (3 bolts)
    Remove the upper timing belt cover.
    Disconnect the coolant line running across the front of the engine from the water pump. (2 bolts on a flange)
    Pull the timing belt.
    Pull the water pump.
    Installation is just reversed.

    If you need images, go to your local library. I never bought a manual, where is the fun in that? LOL plus everything I need to know can be found on the internet.
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