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Did you put a aftermarket radio in ? The clicking sound comes out the driver side speaker . It's generated by the BCM body control module .
Turn Signal Lamps
The STOP/TURN fuse in the instrument panel (I/P) fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the body control module (BCM) for the turn signal lamps. When the turn switch is placed in the left or right position, ground is applied to the BCM on the left or right turn signal switch signal circuit. The BCM then applies voltage to the appropriate front and rear supply voltage circuits.
Grounds for the various lamps are as follows:
• G100 supplies the right front lamps
• G101 supplies the left front lamps
• G400 supplies the right rear lamps
• G401 supplies the left rear lamps
Your best bet would be to take it to a qualified repair shop before you start replacing parts , like the BCM ,which would need to be programmed at the dealer or other thing's will stop working too .
Sounds like low power steering fluid or air in the steering system.To fill up and get the air out faster,it's easier to elevate the front wheels.Fill up the resevoir,and turn the wheel full left,wait 30 seconds,then turn slowly to the right,wait 30 seconds,repeat(and keep an eye on the fluid level)(note:do these lock to lock turns with the engine off-this allows air bubbles to rise up in the resevoir and dissipate,instead of churning through the lines and steering rack)
Turning RIGHT puts the heavy load on the LEFT front wheel.
That initially STOPPED the noise, correct? So why did you change L?
Turning LEFT puts the load on the RIGHT. Did you change the RIGHT?
Let's say this:
If turning RIGHT stops the noise, it's the RIGHT one that's likely bad.
If turning LEFT stops the noise, it's the LEFT one that's more likely bad.
Make sense? Turning RIGHT loads the LEFT wheel; and vice-versa as the WEIGHT SHIFTS AWAY FROM THE TURN.
More than likely it is what some folks call a CV joint problem, not wheel bearings. Try backing up and then going forward to see if "clunking sound" or a sharp "bang" is heard. Wheel bearings and CV joints only work if smooth. Sometimes a BEARING RACE is bad. Also, a bad spindle / part of the CV joint / transaxle assembly worn or badly machined. If in a WET ENVIRONMENT especially, u may want to try marine grade grease or teflon-added grease.
check the drive belt tension and condition,system may have air in it, check fluid level check line for signs of leaking, also there may be some internal wear in pump
Hi it needs a hub bearing sounds like the left one
jack up the left side so the left wheel is off the ground and start the vehicle and spin the wheel up to about 30 mph and you should hear the same noise and if not jack up the right side and do the same
hope this helps you
I'd get a 12vdc test light if you don't have one already & start from plug, and keep probing back from there. It may be as simple as a bad connection under truck where joined into harness.
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