When stalled car will not start again for some time and battery seems dead. What is this?

The first thing that comes to mind for the radio is loose wiring. You didn't mention whether it was aftermarket or stock? You might want to check whether any trouble codes have been stored for the engine stalling issue.

Check the electrical system alternator and battery

Sounds like you may have a plugged Catalytic Converter.

old post......

if the CEL glows, running. that meas there are DTC errors stored
on this very old car its a flash code covered in the FSM
or alldata.com
but switching off, you meant stalls. engine stalls, lights switch off.
the ECU on your car does magic things to prevent all stall.s
so if it does stall that means, its serious and when it does stall
the CEL COMES BACK on, at the stall that is NORMAL.
key on, not running , the CEL lamp is ECU self test passing.
89 swift.
what country?
which engine, of the 6 offered world wide.?
1.3L gas or diesel.?
is it the GTI? the first suzuki to have EFI?
its G13B high performance twin cam engine.??????
New Zealand
???
sold there till 1994
many other countries this name ended in 1988
as you can see below there were two very different 1.3 engine.
I think yours is the G13A, early.

1.0 L G10 (LP2) I3
1.0 L G10T (LS3) turbo I3
1.3 L G13A/BA (L72) 8V I4
1.3 L G13B/G13K 16V DOHC I4
1.5 L G15A 16V I4
1.6 L G16 16V I4

now the late answser
the #1 all time cause for old suzuki's to stall
is the EGR main valve stuck open
#2, idle is way below 800 rpm hot.
#3 never had a tune up, in last decade.
#4 fuel starvation.
there is test for each. ask

sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.

Oxigen sensor. Check accelerator pot also, and fuel pump.

when your car stalls by turning left or right, usually a loose or a glazed belt is suspected. reason being is that the pump is being put under a load by the power steering piston. making belt slip because it needs more torque to spin pulley. also draws more current, so check idle speed and spark plugs.

alternator gone bad, 100%. as the voltage starts dropping, all the lights on the dash will go crazy because the electronics cannot perform their self diagnostics, as they do not have sufficient voltage.

This problem apears when the battery has been diconected for some time. Start the car, and leave in in idle without driving it for about 10 min. The car runs fine after that.

could be a sticking idle air control valve... a little cylinder on the side of your throttle body.. it helps control your idling air fuel ratio.. this goes bad could cause your problems... also easy for you to replace... normally 2 small bolts and a harness.. usually run about 35-85 dollars.. check price and if it's about 35 or so.. i'd go ahead and change it anyways.. 9 years it's probly due.. :D