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the teeth on the ring gear were damaged from continuous grinding during pinion engagement or engagement of the starter when the engine is running causing a burring of the teeth that altered the mesh ability and jammed the ring gear and pinion
metal in the teeth of the ring gear that causes a jam in rotation
starter motor not engaging before rotating
wrong no of teeth on replacement starter pinion or starter motor
if there is a relay in the starter circuit, that is suspect
I would remove the starter motor and check 2 things
first is the condition of the teeth on the ring gear
they have a habit of burring over and the pinion gear gets stuck and will not disengage
next is to check is the pinion teeth the right number on the new starter for the ring gear
That is sometimes an issue but I would suspect first a relay , next damaged teeth on the ring gear ( they appear at specific places on the ring gear (90 degrees -120degres and 180 degrees and run for around 6 teeth where the starter initially engages the ring gear
the smoking is from a burnt out starter because when it is stuck in the ring gear , the starter becomes a generator with uncontrolled current generated going straight to ground
the ring gear on the fly wheel may have damaged teeth or not have the right gear teeth count to be compatible . Pinion teeth have to match the ring gear teeth or they have trouble meshing and that makes it hard to turn over. If the ring gear teeth have been damaged then the gear box will have to come out to get the fly wheel / flex plate off. If it is auto then it is a simple matter of replacing the flex plate . But if manual the ring gear is removed from the flywheel and a new one fitted. Most accredited service shops can do this operation. count the number of teeth on the ring gear and the number on the starter pinion and take the figures to an auto electrician and he will know it they are right.
on the rear end there are about ten bolts on the back cover on one of them is a metal tag remove the bolt clean off the tag and you will see some numbers that tells you what you have,to know call the dealer with that information.
I will assume you are missing your id tag. You will need to remove the rear cover and count the teeth. If you have never opened a drive axle I will warn you it will most certainly stink.
Now to figure the gear ratio:
The best way is to count the teeth on the ring gear and divide by the
number of teeth on the pinion gear. Or you can count the number of
turns of the pinion it takes to get one full turn of the ring gear.
For example, if we divide a ring gear with 41 teeth by a pinion
gear with 10 teeth we find that the gear ratio is 4.10:1 (41/10 =
you can count the teeth on the ring gear and divide that # by the tooth count on the pinion. An example is: ring gear 100, pinion 10 ...100divided by 10 is 10, expressed as 10 to one. (fake #) your diff is likely a 3 series such as 3.23 to 1. or a four series such as 4.11 to 1. If you have four wheel drive it is critical to match exactly. if not you can get better performance by changing ratio to something that better fits your needs. 4 series pull loads well, 3 series are better on fuel.(depending upon terrain)
The C/Tr: C refers to the colour of the vehicle Tr refers to the interior colour A/TM is your transmission type. None of those numbers identify the rear end ratio.
What you need to do: Since you have to replace the rear end, yank it out. Examine the ring & pinion gears on the differential carrier. Mark on each a starting point, and count the teeth on both the ring & pinion gears. Now, after you have both totals of teeth, divide the # of teeth on the pinion by the number of teeth on the ring gear. Example: 12 teeth on the pinion, 46 teeth on the ring
12/46 = 3.83 ratio