Question about 1998 Toyota 4Runner
First check the plugs. Pull the #6 plug and look at the electrode. If it's wet and/or dark (black) it's probably not firing correctly. What is the spark plug gap? Is the center electrode eroded (not flat on the end)? Swap in another plug and see if it makes any difference. How old are the plugs?
Second, check the wires. Did you replace the wire(s) when you changed the coil pack? They should be replaced periodically (I replace the wires on my '96 4Runner at about 100k miles). Check the wires with an ohmeter. Resistance should be around 16-17.5k ohms (depends on length).
FYI, each coil pack on your vehicle fires two spark plugs. The #6 spark plug is fired by the #3 cylinder coil pack, so if the coil pack were bad, most likely both the #3 and the #6 plugs would not fire.
Posted on Feb 15, 2015
Valves are bad. #6. Try this. start the engine, warm it up. Pull the plenum off the throttle body. Rev it up and pour water into the throttle. don't let it die. This cleans the valves and the tops of the pistons. If you don't have a bent or burnt valve, this will clear up the # 6 misfire. other wise replace the heads or engine.
Posted on Feb 15, 2015
you should stop driven the vehicle and get it repaired, The engine light flashing mean the emission problem is doing damage to your convertors.
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
It sound is if your ABS/Speed sensor is the culpret. Try this fairly inexpensive repair before you bring it in for a Diagnostic, which can run anywhere from $89.95 & up. Go to the local ford dealer in your area and ask them for the ABS Sensor in your rear axle differential. The base part number being 9E731. This part runs roughly for about $20.00+ and your own time to replace it.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Take it to another shop and have them do a compression check. If the compression is low, you have found the problem. If the compression is the same as the other cylinders, trade the fuel injector at that cylinder with another cylinder and see if the problem moves. If the problem moves (misfire code in different hole), the injector is bad. If the problem didn't move, and the compression is fine, then you have a vacuum leak on the intake runner to that cylinder, possibly the intake gasket. Print this and give it to your new mechanic.
Posted on Apr 19, 2011
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