Hours replace 10.5" axle hub seal - 2008 Ford F-350

replacing bearing involves removing axle your not replacing a hub but tearing apart axle 99 04 F250 Sterling Rear axle bearing replacement Pt 2 2006 Ford F250 rear hub axle seal replacement F250 Rear Brakes Axle Hub Removal Install 03 07 Powerstroke

It could be a bad wheel bearing, and if so it probably is the passenger side, but check them both sides. Raise both wheels off the ground, or one at a time, and rock the wheel back and forth and up and down. The side with the bad bearing will have a lot more play in it.
To replace, the wheel "hub" with sealed bearing inside is replaced. The hub is bolted to the wheel knuckle, which supports the hub, the CV joint and axle shaft, the brake caliper and rotor, and the wheel itself. If you are experienced at car repair and have the proper tools, you can do it yourself. At a shop, expect a 2-4 hour labor bill, maybe under 2 hours if everything comes off easily. The cost of the hub and sealed bearing is probably less than $100, although prices can vary greatly.

first up jack up the vehicle and remove the damaged wheel
fit the spare tire and then place an indicator ( rod on a brick ) close to the rim of the spare and turn the wheel
if the axle of hub is bent you will see the rim get closer then further away from the indicator as you turn the wheel
if it is , replace the axle and bearings
if not there will be no axle damage but the bearing could be "brinnelled "( a bearing term where the balls or rollers have been imprinted into the race from impact) in which bearing failure will become evident in 10-20,000 miles
next step is to go and get a rear end wheel alignment done as there could be suspension damage that will cause handling and tire wear problems

IF you have a fully floating hub ( one where you remove the axle to get to the hub nut to remove the hub) there will be only one seal inside the hub If you have a semi floating axle( where you have to remove the brake gear and backing plate to remove the axle then the seal is inside the axle housing inside the bearing. Best remove the hub /axle and take the seal to a bearing supply outlet and they will match the seal to your sample.

PLEASE RATE THIS REPLY FOR ACCURACY

if you have a semi-floating axle ie an axle that the axle bearing is pressed on you have to remove the wheel, remove caliper if disc brakes and remove a retaining plate that holds the axle bearing in position. pull out the axle and the seal will be left in the axle housing. Replace and reverse procedures. If you have a full floating axle you have to remove the axle from the hub undo tha axle bearing nuts amnd if disc remove caliper or if drum pull the hub of the axle. The seal will be in the back of the hub as in a truck. you will need some mechanical knowledge so if you are unsure get a mechanic to advise you

Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly, thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32 (or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.

If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends around the axle nut.----

coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.



I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.

Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison

Remove the bolts or nuts at the end of the axle and remove the axle from the axle tube. There will be a little gear lube that will come out that you will need to replace before you use the vehicle again after you replace the wheel seal. That will expose the axle nuts to the axle hub that you will need to remove to replace the inner wheel seal. It's basically very simple once you get the axle out you will see how it all comes apart. Be sure to torque the axle nut and locking nut correctly upon reassembly.

Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead.
Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel.
Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10
Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or
flexible hose.

Pry off the hub grease cap
Remove and discard cotter pin
pull off castellated nut retainer
Remove the hub nut and bearing washer.
Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.

Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard.
remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups.
Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate.
Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft.
Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub.
Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup.
Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease.
Wash the hub assembly thoroughly.
Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly.
Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation.
Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle.
Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut.
It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.

Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float.
.001-.003"
As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions.
Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated
nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling.
Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.

Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification
operation of the braking system verified.
Reassemble wheel

You will need to replace the entire CV axle. Loosen the axle nut, loosen the lug nuts, lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, undo the tie rod end to free the steering knuckle, tap the axle out of the hub, then pry the other end of the axle out of the transmission. When putting the new axle in place, take care not to damage the transmission seals or the hub seals.

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