Why is the engine not starting

The P0340 code indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor circuit. However, given the additional symptoms you've described, it's possible that there may be multiple issues contributing to the no-start condition. Here are a few things you may want to check:

1. Check the wiring and connector for the camshaft position sensor. Make sure the wiring is not damaged and the connector is securely attached.
2. Check the timing belt or chain. A broken or worn timing belt or chain can cause the camshaft position sensor to fail and can also result in a no-start condition.
3. Check the crankshaft position sensor. A failed crankshaft position sensor can also cause a no-start condition.
4. Check the fuel pressure. While you can hear the fuel pump activate, it's possible that it's not delivering the proper pressure to the fuel injectors.
5. Check the ignition system. Check for spark at the spark plugs and make sure the ignition system is functioning properly.
6. Check for vacuum leaks. A vacuum leak can cause a rough idle or a no-start condition.

It's also possible that the excessive oil on the spark plugs may be related to a separate issue such as a failed piston ring or valve seal.
If you've checked all of these components and are still unable to diagnose the issue, I would recommend taking your vehicle to a qualified mechanic who can perform additional diagnostics to pinpoint the cause of the no-start condition.

Needs a tune up. Adjust engine timing, replace plugs and plug wires, replace air filter, oil and oil filter, fuel filter and clean fuel injectors, adjust valves.

Hard Start
Checks
Action
Definition: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.
Preliminary
• Refer to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check .
• Refer to Important Preliminary Checks .
• Refer to Visual/Physical Checks .
• Search for bulletins.
Sensor/System
• Check Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Connect a Scan Tool and compare the Engine Coolant Temperature with the Intake Air Temperature on a cold engine. The ECT and IAT should be within ± 3°C (5°F) of each other. Check the resistance of the ECT sensor if the temperature is out of range with the IAT sensor. Refer to Temperature vs Resistance . If the ECT sensor resistance is not within the specification, refer to DTC P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or DTC P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage .
• Check the throttle body inlet screen for foreign objects or damage that may affect the MAF sensor airflow sample. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement .
• Use a scan tool in order to check the IAC operation. Refer to Idle Air Control (IAC) System Check .
• EGR system. Check the for the following conditions:
- EGR pipes and adapter for vacuum leaks.
- Remove the EGR valve and check for a stuck open pintle. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Replacement .
Fuel System
• Check the fuel pump relay circuit for proper operation. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .
• Check for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test .
• Check the fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test .
• Check for fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Test .
Ignition System
• Check for proper ignition voltage output by using the following steps:
- Clip the spark tester J 26792 to engine ground.
- Connect one end of a spark plug wire to the spark tester while leaving the other end of the spark plug wire to the coil being tested.
- Connect one end of another spark plug wire to the other coil tower.
- Connect the other end of the spark plug wire to ground.
- Crank the engine while observing the spark tester. A crisp blue spark should be observed.
- Repeat the above steps for each coil.
• If an adequate spark is not present at the coil(s), check for the following conditions:
- Coil(s) - Cracks, carbon tracking/arcing, or a resistance value outside the specified range.
Coil Resistance
5000 - 8000 ohms (5K - 8K ohms)
- Spark Plug wires
• signs of arcing/cross
• cracks
• carbon tracking
• firing
• plug boot damage
• pinched or improper routing
• high resistance
- Spark plug wire resistances should measure less than the specified value.
VIN 1 Spark Plug Wire Resistance
7000 ohms (7K ohms).
VIN K Spark Plug Wires Resistance
10000 ohms (10K ohms).
Important: Spraying the secondary ignition wires with a light mist of water may help locate an intermittent problem. Ignition components will arc to ground when a secondary component is malfunctioning.
- Defective module.
- Ignition System Wiring - Loose ignition module feed or ground connection, or damaged system wiring.
• Remove spark plugs and check for the following conditions:
- Fouled plugs
- Cracks
- Wear
- Improper gap
- Burned or damaged electrodes
- Improper heat range or reach
• If spark plugs are gas or oil fouled, the cause of the fouling must be determined before replacing the spark plugs.
Engine Mechanical
• Excessive oil in combustion chamber-Leaking valve seals. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
• Low cylinder compression. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
• For incorrect basic engine parts. Inspect the following:
- Cylinder heads
- Camshaft and valve train components
- Pistons, etc.
- Refer to Engine Mechanical.

This problem can be hard to track down , it could be caused by several thing's ! A bad check valve in the fuel pump letting fuel drain back into the tank , not keeping fuel line pressure up , a crankshaft position sensor can also cause this as well as an ignition control module !
Checks
Action
DEFINITION: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.
Preliminary
?€¢
Refer to Important Preliminary Checks Before Starting in Symptoms - Engine Controls .

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Inspect the powertrain control module (PCM) grounds for being clean, tight, and in the proper locations. Refer to Engine Controls Schematics .

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Search for bulletins.

Sensor/System
?€¢
Test the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Connect a scan tool. Compare the engine coolant temperature against the intake air temperature (IAT) on a cold engine. The ECT and IAT sensor values should be within ?± 3?°C (5?°F) of each other. If the ECT sensor is out of range with the IAT sensor, check the resistance of the ECT sensor. Refer to Temperature Versus Resistance for resistance specifications. Replace the ECT sensor if the resistance is not within the specification. If the sensor is within the specification, repair the ECT signal circuit for high resistance.

?€¢
Inspect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor installation. A MAF sensor that is incorrectly installed may cause a hard start. Important: The embossed arrows on the MAF sensor indicate the direction of the intake air flow. The arrows must point toward the engine. Install the MAF in the proper direction. Refer to Mass Airflow Sensor/Intake Air Temperature Sensor Replacement .

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Inspect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor for proper mounting and/or a bad connection. A long crank time occurs if the PCM does not receive a CMP signal.

Fuel System
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Inspect the fuel pump relay operation. The fuel pump should turn ON for 2 seconds when you turn ON the ignition. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .

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A faulty in-tank fuel pump check valve allows the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank after the engine stops. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four injectors and four ignition coils not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the injector circuits and the ignition coil circuits for an intermittent short to ground.

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Inspect for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect for a restricted fuel filter. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect for a contaminated fuel condition. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .

Ignition System
?€¢
Test both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four ignition coils and four injectors not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the ignition coil circuits and the injector circuits for an intermittent short to ground.

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Inspect for proper ignition voltage output with J 26792 Spark Tester. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .

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Remove the spark plugs and check for the following:

-
Correct heat range

-
Wet plugs

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Cracks

-
Wear

-
Improper gap

-
Burned electrodes

-
Heavy deposits

Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical.
?€¢
Determine the cause of the fouling before replacing the spark plugs if the spark plugs are gas, coolant, or oil fouled. Refer to DTC P0172 or P0175 for diagnosis of the rich condition. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical for diagnosis of coolant or oil fouled spark plugs.

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Inspect for bare or shorted ignition wires.

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Inspect for loose ignition coil grounds. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .

Your engine is flooded with fuel. Check your throttle body if it's a fuel injected engine. Clean it. Remove spark plug, let it dry or replace with new ones.Try flooring your acc pedal and start. If it starts, you need to get the carb serviced. For fuel injected, you need to service/ repair/replace your throttle body, fuel injectors, idle air control valves and EGR.

Remove the oil filler cap on valve cover and have someone turn over engine. If valves are moving the timing belt is OK. , if not the timing belt broke or is loose and may need replaced. Check internal timing pulleys as well for damage.
Also, check spark plug wires and replace as needed.

Only one belt for timing...

First you have to determine weather you have a FUEL problem or (ELECTRICAL)Spark problem ??

Pull the coil wire off or a easy to get to spark plug wire, Lay it close to were you pulled it off of (Do not hold or touch you may get SHOCKED) and crank motor (need two people) look and listen for a spark, if you see or here a spark, then go to next step which will be to check for Fuel (gas). Be very careful when checking fuel, as most lines are under pressure and may cause bodily harm such as BURNS to EYES and SKIN!! Loosen or pull the inlet fuel line off and put rag over line. Some fuel injected vehicles have a fuel rail the has a valve that looks like a tire valve. Put a rag over this valve and push it in with a small screw driver and have someone crank motor a couple of times to see if fuel is coming out.

If NO Spark---Could be a lot of things Points (older vehicles) Modules, Coils, Crank Sensors, ECT......

If NO Fuel---- Could be Clogged fuel filter, Fuel Pump, Fuel pump Relay, Fuse, ECT..........

Hope this helps you ??

hi, please check you oil level, ( on level ground). when the car is running place an old rag in front of you and take off the oil filler cap (be careful not to get near the fan, fan belt) if no oil comes out of the filler hole possible fault: oil pick-up pipe (in sump partial block), / oil filter in sump ( blocked), oil pump worn, oil relief valve (returning oil back into the sump), spring weak / broken. the (E C U) ENGINE CONTROL UNIT has many sensors that can stop the engine: but try cleaning the (EGR) ENGINE GAS RECIRCLING VALVE, this valve recycles gas back in to the engine, ( must be CLEANED with BRAKE FLUID) this is a VERY DIRTY job, as this gets block with carbon (EXHAUST PARTICULES). the E C U will detect all of these sensors: the (ECT), TOP OF ENGINE engine coolant temperature sensor rough tick over, (HO2), EXHAUST DOWN PIPE, heated oxygen sensor checks mixture of fuel, can adjust air / fuel, it tries to keep car going / may flood engine. (M A F) mass air flow, adjusts fuel / air retio this sensor can so much fuel to the engine it may flood it. flooded engine mean WET spark plugs. i would put it on dianostic machine to check these out before paying for extra sensors. gerry

90000 km service includes changing.spark plugs,oil and oil filter,gearbox fluid,brake fluid ,air filter and fuel filter if needed,a full safty inspection.and the most important timing belt,and while your doing the timing belt you should do the water pump.

You may have an ignition, fuel delivery or compression problem.
1. Check for spark first. If there's no spark, you may have a failed ignition module, ignition pickup, ignition coil or open in the ignition circuit (bad ignition switch or neutral safety switch).
2. If you have spark, check for fuel. On carbureted engines, remove the air cleaner, hold the choke open, look down the carburetor throat and work the throttle linkage. If you don't see any fuel squirting into the carburetor, the problem may be a stuck needle inlet valve in the carburetor, a bad fuel pump, a plugged fuel filter, a plugged or frozen fuel line, an obstructed fuel tank pickup screen, or no fuel (or water contaminated fuel) in your tank.
3. If you have spark and fuel, your timing chain or belt may have broken or slipped. If your engine has a distributor, remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked. No movement would tell you the timing belt or chain (or possibly the cam itself) is broken. Another alternative is to remove the valve cover to see if the valves are opening and closing. This too will show you if the cam drive or cam is broken.
If a cam belt or chain has "slipped a tooth," throwing valve timing off, the valves will still open and close, and the rotor inside the distributor will still turn. But the engine won't develop enough compression to start. A compression check can help you find this kind of problem.