Can you bypass the over drive sensor?

I do not think that this is possible. The Powertrain Control Module uses the Turbine Speed Sensor to control torque converter lockup and pressures. Since the issue is the missing input to the PCM, doing anything with the throttle body will not affect it. It will probably not cause any lasting damage, but the truck will not perform in regards to speed, shifting and acceleration, since the PCM does not know how fast the turbine is spinning.

Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

2000 to 2500. If your not sure the OD is coming on. At 55 MPH, pull the shifter lever down to third gear. If no change, you have no OD. The most common problem with this is that the governor solenoid goes bad. It has the Temp sensor built in. About a $100 fix. Sensor,filter and fluid.

You might have a bad throttle position sensor that's going bad.You didn't say if you had a check engine light that's on or not.If there is then I would recommend that you have your local auto parts store retrieve the codes and and that will give you a better idea as to what the problem could be.Without actually being able to completely inspect all the necessary systems I would only be making a guess according the information that you provided to me.It sounds like a bad throttle position sensor

The following drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.

1. . Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
3. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

Hello
You have a bad speed sensor located on top of the rearend of your truck. If you dont fix this soon it will give you more probloms. yes this is needed
Thanks

U have to operate the engine at all kinds of diff speeds and drive modes, it is called a OBDII drive cycle, here is how u do one.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge

11- no start since battery disconnected.
12- battery has been disconnected recently.
22-Coolant temperature sensor, bad connection or faulty.
44-signal to smec (engine computer) was interrupted, or is not present.
55- is end of codes.

What exactly are you experiencing as far as starting and driving goes.
The only code I see right now that I would worry about is the coolant temperature sensor, if you are experiencing poor running, starting etc.
The signal to smec, may have been a one time thing, if vehicle runs.

1) do you have a Check Engine Light On while running? If so find out what the code is
2) these engines are known for their CPS going bad...it can be tested on the car with a volt meter and turning the engine, but it isnt easy....I would have to err in the direction of changing the Crank Position Sensor.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

There is a way, first thing to do is unhook neg. battery cable lieve it off for about 15 to 20 minutes this will erase any codes that are stored in the computer and light will go off, than hook cable back up, start car and drive until light comes on again, when light comes on take to autozone and have it scaned, that should tell you witch one it is, or what the problem is.