Sounds like a bad metal rattle when the car starts and engaging gears

Common Car Noises and Their Likely Causes Noise More Details Likely Cause Fixing It Clicking noise while turning Starts faint, gradually becomes more noticeable until very loud Failed outer CV joint (constant velocity joint) due to torn boot (most likely) or old age Replace either the whole axle assembly (recommended) or the outer CV joint Water pump noises Difficult to diagnose because of water pump's location Noise usually caused by damage to the bearings in failed water pump Only cure is replacing it. If possible do it at the same time as a timing belt replacement to cut down on labor costs Squeak or squeal from an engine belt Loud, high-pitched squeak or squeal Belts either need adjustment or replacing If belts only squeak when damp, they probably just need adjustment. If they squeak constantly, they probably need to be replaced Exhaust heat shield noises Rattle that you hear when car is idling Damaged heat shield Replace heat shield

If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

sounds like a throw outbearig

The ticking noise could be coming from a CV joint. Does the ticking noise go away in reverse? A loose brake pad (Anti rattle clip missing or broken) will move back and forth in it's mounting, a warped rotor will enhance this effect, the ticking noise will come when the pads moves upward into it's mounting causing a metal on metal tick.
Does the ticking noise get louder when you are turning the vehicle? If it does this would indicate a worn CV joint.

The most likely causes will be...
A worn ball joint on the front suspension.
A broken front spring.
A worn driveshaft.
Most mechanics will have a look for you at no cost.
But you can test as follows.
(Driveshaft=) in an EMPTY car park or similar area turn your steering as far as you can to the left. Drive in a circle at about 20mph and listen. If faulty you will hear a regular "clonk, clonk, clonk" noise. Repeat this with your steering hard over to the right as well. It might be louder in one direction than the other.
(Ball joint=) DO NOT DO THIS ON JUST THE JACK!! PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS!!
Make sure the steering lock is ON.
Jack the car up and PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS for stability. Using a bit of effort grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to rock it. Grab the wheel at left and right and repeat. Other than some steering movement it should be solid. There will be movement if the joint is worn, there may even be a click or clonk noise.
(Spring=) As for the ball joint test PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS!!
With the car off the ground take off the front wheel. Using a torch get a good look at the spring from the top all the way down to the bottom. There should be no breaks, shiny or missing pieces. Gently, but firmly, try and move the spring. It should be straight and not move. Do this both sides.

It is the drive axles. If you look under your ca you will see that the shafts going to your wheels have rubber boots to protect the bearings. They are most likely torn and the bearings have become dirty and contaminated. Replace the drive axles and the clicking will go away!

A lack of gear oil in the transfer case or gear box will make shifting and gears become ruff then destroyed within a few hundered miles, sometimes much much less. Unless this truck has had a history of bad shifting technique I have found these trucks and gears to be extremely reliable. If the clutch makes a loud wirring noise when engaged and disengaged ther may be a bearing problem. Check the U joints in the driveline. Bad U joints would usualy result in a lot of gear box twisting and jerking when starting out but diminishes with speed.

Probably a bad u-joint.

It sounds like you have a bad c v or constant velocity joint. Look under the car next to the wheel look for a rubber accordian type unit, if the rubber is torn or lose the grease has escaped and damaged the joint. You can replace it yourself, but if your not mechanically inclined would say take it to a shop.

Could be a few things. Bad ball joint, cv joint, or others. But I'ld start with the CV joints. Basically, your axle shaft. First way to tell if that's the prob would be to put truck in 4 wheel drive, LOW gear. This will lock up all four tires. Then jack up that corner of truck. If the tire only moves a little before you can't anymore, it's fine. But if you can spin your tire completely, odds are it's your cv joint.