In the up position my ram doesn't look like it is all the way up. How do I fix it?

1. Place the ignition switch in the ON position.
2. Push and hold the sunroof switch toward 2 . Once the sunroof has reached the full tilt position, release the switch. Push and hold the switch toward the 2 position again. After a delay of four seconds, the sunroof will make a small movement and backup.
3. Release the switch.
4. Within 5 seconds of releasing the switch, push and continuously hold the switch toward 2 . The sunroof will move from the tilt position to the open position and back to the close position.

Lube the locking mechanism to make sure that it isn't sticking in the locked position. If it doesn't fix the problem, then make sure that the linkage inside isn't broken or bent. If neither work then the latch will need to be replaced.

Ge it serviced now.

The EGR on the Ram frequently stick in the partially open position. The dealer stocks them so you know that they aren't fault proof. I did have luck soaking one in a decarboning solvent for a few hours on the bench. The guy never came back (could be a bad thing i suppose). I think it workied out for him however I've changed a few.

Good Luck

there is a tensioner around the engine (it looks like an idler pulley) there will be a 13-15mm bolt that moves the tensioner to the 'slack' position, while you are holding that tenioner slack you need to remove the belt from one of the pulleys ( usually the highet pulley is the easiest) then just reverse the order of the procedure to install the new one.

*** PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO HOW THE BELT IS ROUTED***

****DRAW A DIAGRAM THAT YOU CAN UNDERSTAND TO BETTER HELP YOU WITH THE ROUTING****

There is a bulletin (or recall depending on your mileage) for this issue. The timing chain stretches due to lack of oil lubrication. The acadia engine is very sensitive to timing chain stretch. There are 2 things they will do. The first is a reprogram to let the PCM adjust for minimal extra slack, they will say to drive it and if it doesn't come back on you're good just keep up with the oil changes (5k miles or less with dexos oil). If that doesn't work they will have to drop your engine and replace all 3 timing chains. It's an all day event and may even take an extra day.

tach not working

That code is the EGR. I'd start by checking for a bad connection on the EGR plug-in. Pull the connector off and inspect each individual terminal inside the plug and the connector pins inside the EGR valve.
I found this solution at another forum on this issue. It worked on my 2001 Grand Am:

"Many GM built cars have a tendency to have the 'Check Engine Soon' light come on as a result of DTC code P1404. P1404 is described as EGR valve pintle stuck open, which in most cases is a false alarm. I had this happen with my '01 Grand Am. A little bit surfing on internet reveals that GM has a solution for the problem, a re-flash for the car's computer.

A software re-flash as a fix kind of indicates that the vehicles with this problem were built with it but I don't think GM will be re-flashing cars outside warranty for free. They will want their $100 for it.

Some hands on people I found had purchased a new EGR valve and changed it but the problem remained.

Possible reason (very likely) for the false P1404 code is that the plastic piston of the EGR valve position instrument (LVDT?) wears over time and starts reading a different position at valve closed than what it was when the EGR valve was first installed.

When the car was built and the computer circuits energized for the first time the computer learned the EGR valve closed position signal from the valve position instrument that is built on top of the valve itself. Over time, when the instrument wears, a slightly different signal is sent to the computer and when it differs enough from the 'Valve Closed Signal', that the computer had learned, the trouble code P1404 is set and the 'Service Engine Soon' light comes on.

Replacing the EGR valve with a new one does not necessarily fix this problem because the 'Valve Closed Signal' between valves is slightly different and it is just pure luck if your new valve would give a 'Valve Closed Signal' close enough to your original valve's signal not to set the trouble code. This is why the new EGR valve 'Valve Closed Signal' must be re-learned by the computer.

So, what this all means is that if the P1404 is a false code meaning that the valve pintle is not stuck open, then new 'Valve Closed Signal' can be re-learned by the computer using the old valve.

For fixing this problem the tool you need to have is a simple OBD II code scanner that can be used to erase trouble codes. There are many scanners of different price range on the market. I purchased one from AutoZone for about $90.

A code scanner is a very handy tool to have and I recommend everybody who is just slightly hands on type of a person to get one. It will end up saving a lot of money over time.

The fix goes like this:

1. Disconnect the wire harness from the EGR valve.

2. Turn key ON and erase the trouble code(s) from the car's computer AND TURN KEY OFF IMMEDIATELY WHEN THE SCANNER SAYS CODES HAVE BEEN ERASED. DO NOT TURN KEY ON BEFORE YOU RE-CONNECT EGR WIRE HARNESS.

3. Re-connect EGR wire harness and your problem should be fixed.

I learned this fix from OBDII.COM where carfixer and kozloski discussed it and I think kozloski was the one who provided the solution, so thanks to them.

There was also other people stating that this fix really works. Now I have joined this group of people as I got mine fixed using this trick also.

I believe erasing codes with wire harness disconnected and turning the key OFF right after P1404 code has been erased re-sets the 'Valve Close Position' reading in the computer and triggers computer to re-learn position next time the key is turned ON.

If you don't have an OBD II scanner and don't want to buy one some car part stores may erase the code for free, but if you have it done there you must tell them about turning the key OFF at the right moment. Other wise the re-learn process does not take place.

not sure what you mean by "sealed unit". if your problem is that your tailgate wont latch together properly, check the condition of the tailgate cables and look for damage to the outer covering and cable itself. it could be that the cable is getting caught b/w gate and bed when you close it. due to a misalignment. yes, i would lubricate the mechanisms with wd40, or a quality graphite lubricant. i would also access the internal mechanisms that actuate the tailgate opening. lubricate those parts too. finally make sure that the cable's tang is slid past on the bolt. this should fix your issues.

check the tvi cable under the hood, make sure there is no excess slack...make sure both ends are connected, the tvi cable is located right next to the throttle cable under the hood