1999 Cadillac DeVille Logo
David Harrelson Posted on Feb 03, 2015
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Caddy just started surging at road speed with throttle steady. Idles fine, and when you mash the gas performs fine, just surges and jerky at steady throttle about 40 to 55 mph.

Have been using regular gas for last 150k miles but recently filled with high test because gas is cheap and thought it might clean out some carbon. Car has 243k miles.

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drvalentine

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  • Posted on Feb 03, 2015
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Sea Foam will clean your engine - intake, injectors, combustion chamber, etc. "Hi Test" will not.

Higher octane fuel actually has higher resistance to exploding. High compression engines need higher octane to prevent 'pre-combustion' or detonation (explosion). Diesel engines do not have a spark plug and rely on diesel fuel detonating due to the very high compression (sometimes 2.5 times what you see in gasoline engines). When octane is not high enough, just the compression stroke will cause the gasoline to detonate on its own prior to the spark plug firing, causing pinging or knocking.

So, DON'T USE 'HI-TEST' gasoline to clean out your engine - it will NOT perform that function for you!!!

5 Related Answers

Greg Mills

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  • Posted on Aug 09, 2009

SOURCE: speedometer surging. actual speed 40 mph,

Its a loose connection on the speedo cable. its a b*tch to get to. I had the same problem on my truck, it would fluctuate in 5th gear on the highway. i spent the money and had a professional do it.

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Ronny Bennett Sr.

  • 6988 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2010

SOURCE: how to clean and remove a throttle sensor on a

There is no cleaning a throttle position sensor.It is bad,or good,

Testimonial: "Thanks very helpful"

Anonymous

  • 1970 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 24, 2010

SOURCE: 1993 cadillac deville 4.9 300ci. cars engine

mcdevito75 Here, The air idle sensor / motor could be faulty, Oxygen sensor in the exhaust system could also be faukty, Have your shop run a scan.

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 05, 2011

SOURCE: have an 88 deville that

try checking the coil for leaks. if it looks discolored anywhere on the coils then it's leaking. i had the same problem with mine. sounds like the same thing mine was doing untill i replaced the coil. could also be the drive gear for the distributor to but highly unlikely

Anonymous

  • 1702 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2011

SOURCE: at low speed 5-15 mph

the O2 sensor code should not cause a stall, the EGR might if it were stuck open but we don't see them stick and un-stick all by there self's, what you are describing is a bad idle air control valve ( motor ) we see these fail all the time and they don't generally set a code, it is a pretty easy repair it mounts right on the side of the throttle body, the best thing i can tell you is to by a new one that way you know what to look for under the hood, you need no special tools to replace the motor just some tourx bits, when you remove the motor take some carb. cleaner and clean the passage under the IAC motor.

let me know if there is any thing else i can do for you.

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Car surging

Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!
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get the service and repair manual from the given link and fix the problem by you own http://toolsnyou.com/
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Check the fuel pump pressure.
Also can replace the fuel filter, cheap and might help.
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Car jerks while driving at steady speeds

Did you have the wires replaced also?? If not I would replace both the plugs & the wires all at the same time.You may have carbon tracking on your wires & plugs.What Year is Saturn?? If it's a 91-94 You most likely have a EGR Valve floating due to a weak internal spring.It will cause a surge miss at constant throttle.Hope This Helps!!
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Idle fluctuates

Its could be a few things. Most likely cause is you IAC (Idle air control valve) If this valve gets clogged up with carbon it will cause a idle surge on cold starts like you are describing.

Next your FITV (fast idle thermal valve). When the hot wax inside of this valve starts to wear it will cause a idle surge on cold starts.
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