I separated the wires going to the positive side of battery ,i noticed a thick white wire that needs to be connected to start the vehicle was getting worm quickly , battery seems o k ,any help would be appreciated cheers !
Ever heard of get it serviced/ sure.
you have a short,
if you have no tools you will not find it.
but there are tests.
no photo of warm wire, are we to guess.that, how?
Shorts 101, and great, videos.
finding shorts on any system or vehicles are same, cars boats, planes, trains, and same tactics. all the same.
better tools, easy to find
also that hot wire, if not stock we can do nothing
if its the starter wire, then there is a short on that wire.
if crankng made the starterwire hot
pull fuses, pull loads, are free test. beyond that takes an ammeter
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html
Testimonial: "Hi Cadaver,thanks for advice,i found the white wire from starter motor was getting hot at the battery terminal because previous owner must of extended it with wrong gauge wire,I wouldn't of found it, but when looking for battery drain(charging battery)the wires pulled out of the clamp so some good came of it.Anyway removed inside fuses also ones behind glove box & in engine bay,checked for any lights,interior,doors,glove box.Learnt to use multimeter,Will go threw process again to see if i mist any think.Thanks again for your help,cheers."
Hi my battery slowly draining when parked for a few days-week,has new alternator,battery ok, I found white thick wire that connects to battery gets very hot/little smoke when ignition on,I think starter/ignition wire won't start with out it and only wire that lights up the dash lights ,does not get hot or even warm when motor is running, not blowing fuses,(I think battery draining and hot wire are different issues,I don't know)Vehicle has been lifted 4inch's, It has 2.5 inch bull joint spaces and diff drop with dobinson flexi coils in the rear plus a 2inch body lift has been installed. vehicle is 91 toyota surf import 2:4 turbo diesel, Any help/Advice would be appreciated,cheers!
Cadaver sorry but i hope this is better imformation!
fact us,both are issues, hot wires, are overloaded or (or corroded) the former is underguaged wire, or circuit overload, you need an ammeter to find this. the Phantom drain spec, is .010 to 0.040 amps. , so we measure the key off drain, if over that, its bad, we then find it, its that simple, like pulling apples from a tree, we drop fuses then loads, to find the shorted device (load) why not go to the auto electric shop and have the guy there find both, and fix both issues. my guess is car is custom hacked , things change with no regard to circuit branch load ratings, causing white wire hot. (where does whitewire go? that key quesition and what guage where that, and why is fues protecting this feed, no blowing? my guess, wrong fuse, or wire guage too small, all these facts are in question with custom cars, the drain checks are text book , methods. here is one:http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html#...
if a wire is hot key on and is not green with corrosion, its overloaded, it can be overloaded for 2 reasons, someone(hacker) added loads to this circuit, blind. or replaced one part with and other non stock part, that uses huge current (LIKE HEADLIGHTS) ,but if hacked no one knows whats there, the prevous owner did docuement that, so that means your tech gets to trace all that out , $$$ but he can and will find , wrong parts, or bad parts there,. or added parts, not part of origional makers DESIGN.. see? if you buy any custom car this, is the penatly for that. (post hack, documentation) the drain can much easier to find, ulling fues, connectors, and loads. this part really is easy, on any stock car as the FSM book shows every part, and every connector to pull and its location. if the hacks are not removable , then the wiring needs an upgrade (hot wire) . smaller gauge wired, picked just for you new excess loads, if part is only bad, then its just replaced. see?
smaller guage is bigger copper core. Awg. (in other countries gauge can be in mm. (like done on German cars)
great, you found a hack , an ammeter will find any illegal drain. normal is about 0.010 amps, never 0.1 or more. see? the ECU and radio will use this very timing current for memory, that is IT.
timing = tiny,
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I have the same problem. it just wont start one morning. can you please help me in case you have solved your problem already.
SOURCE: 1972 Ford F100 Alternator/Voltage Regulator wiring
Here is what you need.
Please rate this a fixya
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check the feed on the back of the alternator (live), then check the engine earth if the truck has been lifted or raised the earth will be poor. try running an earth fron the exhaust studs to a chassis member.
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I had the same problem on a 94 dodge with the cummins. It seems the crank sensor that reads from a notch on the harmonic balancer was the problem Without this sensor reading that the engine is running the alternator wont charge. Possibly the same problem with yours
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the sliding door is probablly draining the battery,, have door checked.. make sure tracks are clean and hinges are not binding
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