How do I remove the panel beneath the steering wheel?

unhook it at bottom of column,a REAL flatbed operator can get it onto the truck without that

This all depends on what year the vehicle is? And wether there is an airbag fitted on the steering wheel front. If there is an airbag fitted on the steering wheel front, then the job is best left to a qualified mechanic, as the airbag sensor will have to be disconnected ( Disabled) and this can be very tricky. If there is no airbag on the front steering wheel cover then you will need a good socket set, remove the front cover of the steering wheel and undo the bolt holding on the wheel to the column, then you will see the rest of the bolts for the column at the rear, remove these also, take pics of the set up of wiring looms and bolts before! And keep all parts in a box for safe keeping.

Is it the dash vibrating or is because of wheel vibration? Generally the dash is pretty sturdy and unless its been in a major prang and the panel beaters have missed putting some of the screws back, it shouldn't vibrate. If the vibration starts at a certain speed and the steering wheel vibrates too, I would say its a wheel balance problem. Any Tyre place should be able to rebalance the wheels and sort this out for you. There is a possibility of a drive shaft vibration but im not sure how you check that out. If it is the dash, then good luck... There are many screws, bolts etc that hold the dash together, You will have to by trial and error , see which one is loose or missing. Before you do anything though, check that nothing is loose and rattling or vibrating in your glove box, ashtray or tissue holder. . There used to be this ad on TV showing a Guy who stripped his entire dashboard down to fix an annoying rattle. When he was looking at the hundred parts or so lying on the driveway, he found a couple of spare coins nuts and bolts rattling around in the ashtray which was the cause of the rattle!

If the loose motion is coming from the tilt part, there are three bolts inside the column that need to be tightened up.
Someone would need to remove the steering wheel to access the bolts.

You must remove the steering cowl below the steering wheel and see what is loose, broken or worn. It more likely to be a loose bolt, in which case just tighten it and refit the cowl.
Hope that helps

I have a 99 SC, and I found that the backlight itself blew out. In some S Series, that backlight is an LED, which technically have a limitless life. It's more likely that the bulb is a standard incandescent. It can be replaced, and I did so myself for about $3.
All bolts were metric.
All steps below work for the SC, but they might be a little different for yours.
The steps include:
1) Remove screws from the underside of the steering wheel that hold the plastic cover on. Pull it apart as best as you can; it might not entirely come apart.
2) Remove all screws holding the lower panel above the pedals, and remove the panel - be careful, the hood release is mounted in this panel. Also, the electronic diagnostic port screws are also securing this panel.(it is on the SC).
3) Remove the two decorative plastic caps from the center of the dash towards the windshield. Remove the two screws beneath.
4) Remove the top dash cover bezel. You may need a flathead screwdriver to pry the clips loose. Be careful so that you do not damage the bezel.
5) The steering wheel may be in the way of the proper removal of the instrument cluster, and you will need to drop it to the floor. It can be dropped by removing two bolts that hold the column just below the cluster from the bottom. They are larger bolts, but are difficult to see behind some wiring. You may have to disconnect an electrical cable in that vicinity in order to remove the bolts. Once the bolts are out, the wheel easily drops to the floor.
6) Remove the bezel that sits in front of the instrument cluster by prying out the two small plastic retainers in the top.
7) On the back of the instrument cluster, identify the electrical connectors. You will see a single orange tab sticking out of each connector. Remove the tab. Place it in a safe place. Then remove the electrical connectors by pressing carefully on the tabs on the side to release the latch. This takes some patience and can be difficult.
8) Remove the two bolts that hold the instrument cluster in on the lower left and right of the cluster. Then, remove the two bolts in the back of the cluster towards the windshield.
9) The cluster should now easily come out of the dash. Turn the cluster over, and you should see an array of gray knobs, behind each of which is a bulb. All those bulbs are probably fine (unless you've noted other lighting anomalies in your cluster). The knob you must locate is black in color, and is directly behind the odometer. It turns about 1/5th of a rotation counter clockwise, and easily pops out.
10) Take this to the auto store. You can easily pop the light out of the black knob, and replace it with a matching bulb from the lighting department at the auto store. They are very cheap.
11) Reassembly is reverse of assembly. Ensure you tighten the steering wheel bolts tightly, otherwise they will come loose and rattle, potentially the steering wheel unexpectedly on your lap. Regarding other bolts, be careful of over tightening because this can easily cause the bolts to strip their threads.

As a general rule, don't pull too hard on anything. If it's not coming loose, you probably missed a bolt! In some cases, you may have to remove the left end cap where your left driver's vent is. This can be tricky, even though only two bolts hold it in place.

Give yourself plenty of time, and you'll be just fine. My total repair was about two hours.

sounds like a bad "Rag Joint ', that;s a piece of tire carcass material (a two inch circle at the bottom of the steering collumn) where the steering wheel connects to the rack and pinion(It;s to kill vibration)
It's fairly easy to replace, also easy to get your steering wheel upside down

if the rag joint's good the steering rack and pinion assy must have a stripped gear.
This is rare, check the rag joint firstit's a small ***** to replace but not impossible usualy you have to unbolt the collumn inside the cab (Two bolts under the bottom of the dashboard, there's a cover to remove beneath the stering column)

It's a loose steering column. Remove the black plastic shield under the steering wheel. Lossen the bolt that holds the two shafts together, slide them together as far as they'll go, and re-tighten the bolt. It's that simple... to stop that annoying rattle.

Hi snich69, I found a guy that can help you. You will have to request him.
http://www.fixya.com/users/toyota_ed

He will be expecting you.
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Lone99star

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_77a19afa8d604dee

I am experiencing similar problems on an '89 S-10. I have the entire steering column torn apart. There are 4 bolts inside the steering column that come loose and cause the steering wheel to move a little bit. I fixed that problem, but now I'm stuck. I believe there is something that is supposed to attached the shift tube to the gear bowl or the steering column housing, and now thats where I'm stuck. Hopefully you'll be able to tighten those 4 bolts inside the housing and be done with it, good luck. Anyone else have advice?