I have a 2005 Mustang 4.0 . I am having problems with my instrument panel . The water temp gauge will not go back to cold after the engine is cool and continues to max out. The seed odometer will not work or is erattic . The tach works some time and other times give false rpm . What is the problem I have changed the speed sensor ...still same problem
SOURCE: CAM SENSOR ENGINE LIGHT. MAX RPM 2000 SOMTIMES
I seen this before first of all don't let the car dealer to BS the way to your money, most of the time is noting wrong whit the sensor it self but is the plug than goes in to the sensor this what i recommend is to buy another sensor from your local auto part store or salvage yard (cheaper) get three pieces of cable and solder directly in to the sensor brake the plastic around the sensor plug if necessary and secure the three cables to it put some silicon in between the solder and the place the new sensor on top of the old one so you now wish wire goes to which and cut and attach one by one. I now this works 100% i have done it my self many times if you need diagrams or sensor locations you can find that at www.alldatadiy.com now if you still have problems unplug all harness especially all the ones than comes from the back of the engine because that engine tends to leak oil on top of the harness if you have wires doing shortcut replace that section you can solder use heat string tube and change the insulation hose they sale those on part stores to put some zip tides on the ends and you will have your car back and will last Note don't let it get to close to the exhaust use zip tides to keep from touching hot areas.
SOURCE: Instrument cluster on 97 Wrangler
IF YOU REMOVE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND UNPLUG IT,PLUG IT BACK IN AND UNPLUG IT AGAIN..DO THIS A FEW TIMES..IT SHOULD CLEAN OFF SLIGHT OXIDATION ON CONNECTOR TERMINALS..HAVE SEEN THIS BEFORE..I ALSO THINK REPAIR CONNECTORS AVAILABLE FROM DEALER
SOURCE: 2001 Nissan Altima - Instrument panels gauges stop working
My 2001 Altima's instrument gauges die out after high-speed driving for 40-50 miles. Engen also loses power. Everything is back to normal when the car cools down. It turned out the ingition relay was bad. I could duplicate the problem right away by removing the relay. Actually, it is very easy to find the relay which is located above the fuse panel. The ignition relay is the bottom left one among the five relays there. It costs only $20.
SOURCE: Instrument cluster stops working while driving and
Go to your Fuse and Relay Box called the Power Distribution Center located in your engine comparment and Remove and Replace your Accessories Relay. Your Instrument Cluster is run off this. You should have a Spare Relay of the same type (size and shape). If not use a non-engine operation Relay (that is known to be working!) of the same type (size and shape), and check the operations of both the Instrument Cluster and the relay you switched-it-out-for. If the Instrument Cluster works and the other quit working, then it is the Relay that is bad and nneds to be replaced.
If this does not work, or if you have intermittent failures, there may be a loose connection and/or a bad power or ground supply. Most of the time - it is the Relay that needs to be replaced.
Let me know if this helped or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
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