How do I find an inlet manifold leak

The PCV valve is located 60 degrees from the driver side. Under the intake manifold coming off the center. Just about a blocks length of distances there is a Z-connector running down the side of the firewall cover. Once you locate the rear motor arm move directly down (horizontally) to the female extender. Open the cover and press lightly with strong mussels on the clamp hoses. Release the rear bumper and jiggle the left arm firmly until the latch reconnects. Disconnect the latch again. The PCV valve should be in plain sight now. It's nearly impossible to local on a rainy day and just as easy when the suns outs puns outs. The Dealership swears the Part # Z-SPARTA1 fits the 2011 models, however, check with your local emissions office to ensure road safety compatibility.

Any vehicle will run poorly with an intake manifold leak. One easy way to test for a leak is to (while the engine is still fairly cool) spray carb and choke cleaner/starting fluid around the base of the intake. You only need a small amount: if there is a leak in between the manifold and the heads, your RPMs will increase until the engine sucks all the carb cleaner in.

16v. G16B motor, that is easy, must be 3sp A/t as 4sp has non.
the modulator is at the read of the 3sp, and has hard line forward
follow that and it goes to rubber line near the plenum nipple.
hard vacuum nipple.

1: the nipple with no hose. in the engine plenum.
the 16v goes way lean with this nipple empty. at idle.
is this a 3 speed or are you reading online advice for 3sp and yours is a 4speed, (apples and oranges, diffr)
see this page for photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/slush-pump.html

Could be the freeze plugs & if the rear engine block
ones ,you will have to remove the transfer & trans to
get to them

coolant manifold? No, no such thing. Is the leak coming from engine? Only manifolds there are the intake and exhaust manifolds. Your intake might have a small coolant line (smaller than a garden hose size) running to it. You just have to find the leak to know what to fix. As for where to purchase, any reputable parts store: Napa is my first choice, followed by discount retailers (O"reilley, etc.) Just be aware that discount places and their parts vary in quality.For major parts, buy from the dealership for OEM (original equipment manufacture). For minor parts and maintenance items, shop around for best prices.
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Bank 1 Sensor 1: Located on rear exhaust manifold pipe nearest the firewall. Fairly easy to remove with the right tools. Clip located on left side of engine compartment.

It is located at the rear of the engine just aft and below the #6 cylinder inlet manifold duct and in front of the firewall. It has a pull handle on it similar to the engine dipstick but is a different colour.

If the tubes going to the rear heater core are the problem , drain the system and replace the bad tube/tubes. If the actual heater core is leaking and you do not want to go to the expense of replacing it, unhook both tubes at the back of the motor , cut out a good section of hose and use it to loop/connect the outlet line and inlet line on the motor side (not the rear heater core side). This will bypass the rear heater core , the front heater core should be adequate to heat the whole car. If you have a pin hole in a section of solid (copper) tubing, you can cut out the bad section and reconnect it with some heater tube and two hose clamps.

This is a symptom of the inlet manifold gasket having a leak.The whistling is air going in through the small leak/hole in the gasket.With the throttle butterfly shut,air is getting sucked in the only way it can.Try tightening the inlet manifold bolts 1st.But more than likely the gasket needs replacing.Hope this helps

It is located on exhaust manifold at rear of motor, near to the firewall.