<!-- from fixya rte -->How to replace tie rod ends on an Xterra - 2002 Nissan Xterra

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

there should be a lock nut on the rod as well. it may look like a hexagonal end on the tie rod end instead of a separate nut, especially if it is a bit dirty. slacken this off first and you should then be able to adjust the rod.

There is a cotter pin that you remove first. Unbolt the tie rod end to where it attaches to the vehicle. You will the need to use a tie rod end separtor to separate it from the knuckle. It is a U kind of tool that you hammer in and it will separate it for you. You will understand what I mean when you see the tool. Next you take two wrenches, one that fits on the flat part of the tie rod end itself ( close to the nut you will see one the treaded bar it is attached to. Take the other wrench and turn the nut on the treaded part of the bar that the tir rod end is attached to. Loosen the bolt, it just needs to be loose so you can turn the tie rod end around. Now that it is loose "unscrew the tie rod end from the treaded bar. Remember to count how many times you turn the tie rod end so you turn it the same amount of turns when you put the new one on. Reassemble in the oposite order remebering to turn that tie rod end the same amount of turns. Make sure that the bolt attached to the treaded bar that the tie rod end screws on is good and tight against the tie rod end so it stays put. I would still think about getting an alighnment and would replace both right and left tie rod ends. I hope this helped and good luck

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

Tie rod ends are replaceable, whether the steering system is rack and pinion or parallelogram steering system.
Parallelogram steering system mounts. Figure A - behind front suspension; and Figure B - ahead of front suspension. A rack and pinion steering system. Tie rod ends are threaded to provide a means of adjusting toe. When a tie rod is replaced, measure the old tie rod assembly before disassembling it. An approximate toe-in adjustment can be made to the new one prior to installation. When removing the old tie rod end, count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Then, turn the new tie rod end onto its threads the same number of turns.
Some vehicles have tie rods that appear to be the same on both ends. The difference is in the threads. One end has left hand threads and the other has right hand threads. It is possible to install the entire shaft backwards (which will work). Mark the tie rod to identify the inner or ourter end before removing it.
Before tightening tie rod clamps, check to see that they are in good condition and are positioned properly so they can be clamped tightly. Before doing a front end adjustment, spray penetrating oil on the threads of the tie rods. Do this during the steering linkage inspection so the lubricant has time to soak in.

Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.

Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.

After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.

Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
2. Hold the tie rod end with vice grips or a pipe wrench and loosen the jamb nut (the nut at the inner end of the tie rod).
3. At the other end of the tie rod remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut.
4. The tie rod end will come out by turning counter clockwise. Before turning it grip the inner tie rod with pliers (the part on the other side of the jamb nut) so that it doesn't turn. Count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
5. Turn the new tie rod end in exactly the same number of turns that were required to remove the old one. Tighten the jamb nut up against the new part.
6. Re-install the castle nut and replace the cotter pin with a new one.
7. Re-install the wheel and lug nuts. Re-torqe them with the vehicle back on the ground.
8. It is a good idea to replace both tie rod ends at the same time and to get a front end alignment afterwards.
I hope this helps.

First loosen the jam nut with a 21mm wrench. Then use vise grips or whatever you have to make sure the rod can be turned that goes into the outer tie rod. Then remove the cotter pin and 17mm castle nut. Strike the hub where the tie rod goes through with a hammer repeatedly until the tie rod pops out of the hole.

Then simply unscrew the tie rod end and replace it. If the inner tie rod end is also damaged, or the rod is damaged you will need to replace them as well. Inner tie rods have a special tool to remove them, see your local auto parts store.

Remember, replacing an outer tie rod end changes your cars toe (alignment). You will require an alignment after replacing it, even if you think the car drives straight.

Good luck!

Instructions Things You'll Need:

• Lug nut wrench
• Jack
• Jack stands
• Wrench or pliers
• Tie rod puller
• Marker or paint
• Pen and paper
• Anti-seize compound
• Torque wrench

Remove the Tie Rod End
1. Step 1 Purchase tie rod ends that are specific to your Honda model and year, for tie rod ends vary from model year to model year. The tie rod ends often come with nuts and cotter pins (glorified bobby pins).
   
2. Step 2 Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires, but don't remove them. Jack up your vehicle, then support it securely on jack stands. Remove the tires.
   
3. Step 3 Use a wrench or piers to loosen the outer tie rod's locking nut, but do so by only 1/8th of a turn. Mark the tie rod end's position on the threaded portion of the tie rod with paint or a marker.
   
4. Step 4 Take out the cotter pin or key and use a wrench or pliers to loosen and remove the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end's spindle.
   
5. Step 5 Separate the tie rod and the steering knuckle with a tie rod puller.
   
6. Step 6 Grasp the tie rod with a wrench while you screw off the tie rod end. Make sure you keep track of the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write that number down. It'll help you when you install the replacement tie rod end.
   Replace the Tie Rod End
7. Step 1 Put a coat of anti-seize compound on the threaded portion of the tie rod end, and screw on the lock nut for the tie rod end.
   
8. Step 2 Screw on the tie rod end, making sure you do it in the same number of turns as it took to remove the original tie rod end (see Section One, Step 6).
   
9. Step 3 Slip the tapered end of the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to 29 to 35 foot pounds. If your tie rod end doesn't come with a castellated nut, tighten that nut to 32 foot pounds.
   
10. Step 4 Install the new cotter pin and tighten the tie rod end's lock nut. Repeat Sections 1 and 2 for the other tie rod end.
    
11. Step 5 Reinstall the tires, tighten the lug nuts and get the Honda aligned.
    

Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.