Question about 2007 Chevrolet Equinox LS

1 Answer

Front brakes locking up after driving once it cools off will unlock

Have replaced master cylinder brake booster both front calipers both front brake hoses and front brake pads

Posted by Tim Carroll on

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1 Answer

Anonymous

Have you checked GM, as well as repair shop data base
Bulletins for those brake issues?

Have you checked with professional scan tool in the
abs module for codes?

Who is replacing those parts & why?

Would seem more like an axle tone ring,wheel hub
tone wheel inside bearing hub,abs module needing to be reflashed
with an update or wheel speed sensors.

Posted on Sep 26, 2014

Testimonial: "booster and master cyl were replaced due to master cyl leaking into booster / all front brake parts replaced as a pm all parts are delco"

  • 1 more comment 
  • Tim Carroll
    Tim Carroll Sep 26, 2014

    any other suggestions on problem with brakes locking up

  • Tim Carroll
    Tim Carroll Sep 27, 2014

    have checked with a snap-on scan tool /wheel speed sensors show to be OK/have code C0131 abs/tcs pressure fault system 5A

  • Anonymous Sep 27, 2014

    Now you go to the flow charts in factory diagnostic manuals with those codes Helm.Com to buy the good manuals,the Haynes & others as of no value to any one

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Brakes no longer work in 1989 Chevy half ton pickup 2 wheel drive 350cubic inch

change dump valve under master cylinder

Posted on Aug 17, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: brakes

Flexible brake lines are probably balooning out causing pressure not to build up, replace flexible to the calipers.

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85239 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor

do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank You"

Anonymous

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

GQ-ROD

  • 635 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brakes

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

Posted on Mar 29, 2010

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2 Answers

Front brakes locked after 10 min of driving. New hoses new calipers rotors pads and 2 master cylinder. Still same result front calipers locked


disc brakes can only lock up because the fluid is not allowed to return to the master cylinder reservoir
That is normally because the compensating port in the master cylinder is blocked
You say that you have fitted 2 new master cylinders but did you check the brake pedal free play because if there is not enough free play then the piston cup covers the compensating hole and the problem that you have is the result

May 26, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

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1991 PATHFINDER Does this car have a proportional valve and would this cause front calipers to lock up?


Need year make and model. In most newer vehicles the valve is located in the master cylinder. It will not normally lock up the front wheels. It usually controls one front and one rear wheel at a time in the event of a brake fluid loss. If front calipers are locking up you could have seized caliper pistons/slide assemblies. The flex hoses may be deterioated internally due to contaminated brake fluid or the master cylinder may be defective

Jul 09, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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My brakes are locking up after i drive my car around 20 min. I have replaced everything from the master cylinder to the calipers including hard and soft lines. New fluid and bled them thoroughly. When it...


To and from the master and calipers. Did you replace the calipers also? Lock ups usually occur when a brake hose is bad or the caliper is bad/binding. Drive it and check the wheel the gets the hottest. Short drive. They get really hot, be careful( will take the skin off your finger). You can get new, bad calipers. The booster and proportioning vavles will not cause a lock up.

Oct 15, 2014 | 2002 Hyundai Accent

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1992 Suzuki sidekick has front brakes locking up after a short drive. Problem started after right front caliper piston was frozen and left front caliper slides were frozen. Replaced right front caliper and...


stop and do not drive, get a brake man, in the loop, danger !


this is cause by the MC, the master cylinder, no ABS in 92
not replacing relic calipers in pairs is dumb, sorry risking life and limb using old 20 year old calipers is not bright. a fact, not opinion.
are both caliper locking, at ONCE?
that is the key question .
reasons. (answer for BOTH clipers locking at once)
1: bad calipers ,no piston lasts for 21 years, ever. (relic)
2: the MC piston is not retraced,

#2 is caused for 2 or 3 reasons,,,,
2a; brake pedal adjusted such that the factory play behind piston rod is not zero or minus, causing the MC to lock hydraulically.
2b; the booster was changed and the PP mechanic (weak) did not
RTM , they did not adjust the new booster, calibration ring stated in the FSM.
3: if one caliper (good) locks the rubber flex line is breaking down
inside and is clogged. 21 year old lines are not good to trust.
not life and limb or mine when you hit me...
that too, is fact.

the guide pins must be free, and antisieze lubed or with special
99cent OTC brake grease (very high temp rated,) ask.
the pistons rust. DOT3/4 is hygroscopic and will rust in 21 years.
not a guess. fact.
One other point, 21 year old caliper seals will no longer have
stiction, they fail to retract the piston and the pad drag. wasting fuel and pads. new seals. better, newly rebuilt Raybestos calipers
will make them safe.
fixing brakes in a serial fashion is asking for trouble.
do not cheap out on brakes.

Aug 21, 2013 | 1992 Suzuki Sidekick

1 Answer

2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn


Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair

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1 Answer

2005 silverado brakes sticking front only after driving little


I had the same problem and replaced both calipers with no change, I figured it was the master cylinder. When I pulled off the master cylinder I saw the vacume booster had about 2 cups of brake fluid in it which leaked from the front of the master cylinder. I replaced master cylinder and vacume booster and brakes work great now.

Aug 30, 2012 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Ford f250 diesel . front brakes come on when driving, don't have to use brakes. changed all calipers and hoses. if i bleed the calipers then they will start to release, sometime you can hear the brake...


sounds like a bad master cylinder, next time brakes are locking up , open bleeder screw and see if that releases brake at that wheel if it does then replace master cylinder, good luck.

Oct 13, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

1 Answer

Front brakes stick on


either your calipers are sticking and need replacing. OR the hoses have failed internally. and need replacing.. very rare but possible the master cylinder is not allowing the fluid to return usually caused bu a booster failing and causing some down travel in the master cylinder. I'd start by raising the front end up. appling hard brake pressure. turn the tire.. then loosen the brake bleeder to check for pressure. if the bleeder sprays fluid and the brakes release forget the calipers. if they are still tight then replace the calipers. pump them up again if they released.. and break the line free at the master cylinder. if they don't release then replace the hoses..

Nov 16, 2008 | 1999 Daewoo Lanos

3 Answers

Front brakes are sticking on and off on 2005 vibe,when the brakes stick brake pedal becomes hard??both sides start to heat up,calipers seizing?master cylinder problem?or?????


Ok Have you recently replaced the pads? Do they act normal after they cool down? Are the pads in good condition, pads that are so worn that the caliper pistons come out beond their normal limit may stick there due to excessively worn pads. If so make sure they are at least factory grade quality Good are bendix, the only thing that can cause your symptoms is a bad master cylinder because it affects BOTH front calipers equally if it was a caliper it is likely to affect only ONE. Let me ask you this happens after driving in heavy traffic or after along drive?
If So there have been countless cases of boiling brake fluid, Old Brake Fluid gathers moisture and its boiling point is lowered, Fluch out ALL the old brake fluid and have new put it.

also is there any chance even the slightest chance that something other than brake fluid even a drop or two is enough to do damage. has been added to the master cylinder at any time? If so you need to replace EVERY PART IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM INCLUDING THE ABS CONTROLLER THAT HAS ANY RUBBER PIECES IN IT CALIPERS HOSES WHEEL CYLINDERS,MASTER CYLINDER just for your information.
I believe you have a bad master cylinder but do not buy a rebuilt one only bran new and preferably from the dealer.
Please contact me if you need more help and would you give me a good rating if you feel my information is helpful.
Thank you ,Randy

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