Well, a faulty water pump could cause the engine to overheat fairly quickly, but additional pressure in the cooling system is usually caused by a leaking head gasket.
First you should check your trunk. some newer chevy's have an access pannel uner the trunk liner inside the trunk. you remove the liner, remove the bolts and panel, and the pump is right there. it may take some effort to get it wiggled through, but trust me, it will fit. you must remove the fuel lines and wire harness first, then remove the lock ring completely before attempting to pull the pump through the access hole. if that fails then you need to drop you fuel tank to access the pump. there are instructions for removal and installation of the tank below.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the fuel tank, using a hand-operated pump device to drain as much fuel through the filler tube as possible.
Fig. View of fuel tank mounting
Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attached to the body with a bracket and retaining bolt
Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attach to the tank by a hose clamp
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Unfasten the muffler hanger bolts.
Remove the rubber exhaust hangers, then allow the exhaust system to rest on the rear axle.
Disconnect the hoses from the fuel tank sender. Grasp the filter and one nylon fuel connection line fitting. Twist the quick-connect fitting 1 / 4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Repeat for the other fitting. Using compressed air, blow out the dirt from the quick-connect fittings at the end of the fuel filter.
Detach the quick-connect fittings by pulling the release tabs back on the fuel line quick connector and pulling apart.
Disconnect the hoses at the tank from the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
With the help of an assistant, support the fuel tank, then disconnect the two tank retaining straps and carefully lower the tank.
Detach the fuel sender electrical connector.
Unplug the fuel pressure sensor connector.
Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
To install:
If the tank is being replaced, perform the following:
Remove the sound insulators.
Remove the modular fuel pump/sender assembly, as outlined earlier in this section.
Inspect all connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace, as required. Inspect the fuel line O-rings for cuts, nicks, swelling and/or distortion and replace as necessary.
Install the fuel sender assembly to the new tank, as outlined earlier in this section.
Install the sound insulators.
With the help of an assistant, raise the fuel tank to the vehicle and attach the fuel sender connector and, if equipped, the fuel pressure sensor connector.
Raise the fuel tank into position then fasten the retaining straps. Tighten the retaining bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Connect the hoses to the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
Attach the nylon fuel feed and return connecting line quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender, as follows:
Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube ends.
Push the connectors together to cause the retaining tabs/fingers to snap into place.
Once installed, pull on both ends of each connection to be sure they are secure.
Install the rubber exhaust hangers.
Install the muffler hanger bolts, then tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
Attach the fuel tank sender electrical connector.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Refill the fuel tank, then connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds, then turn it to the OFF position for ten seconds. Turn again to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
probably not . I would have a compression test done to check for head gasket or cracked head. Check coolant level in the radiator at the cap and ensure that there is no air lock in the cooling system as what you refer to is in fact boiling off from the cylinders not being completely surrounded by water or the compression gasses are escaping from the chamber
Check for a bad head gasket it is a common problem. auto zone has a free tool that will tell you if head gasket is bad the fluid that is needed for the tool is about $8.00if this was helpful please leave good feed back
replace thermostat did bleed coolant system check coolant level.because if not engine could have overheated and blowed headgaskets warp or cracked the heads check engine compression.sound like engine got too hot.
if crank or cam sensor is bad, it will shut down car when warm. have car scanned to see if this is your problem. if you do not have a scanner, most autopart stores will scan it for free.
Have the DIS module checked and the coil pack for cyl 3. If either/both of those need replaced, have it done and have the codes cleared. Then see if it clears the others.
You may need a TPS (throttle position sensor) as well.
×