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Try lubricating the tracks on each side of the window, if it is trying to go up, this should help it. But if it isn't moving at all, you either have a bad switch or bad motor. Either way, you will need to have it worked on shorty.
You need deep socket I think 30 or32 mm.for drvie shaft.all cars not the same,there is bolts which hold hub, what kind you have to look.need hummer punch out.ABS sensor look for wires.
Does the front drive shaft turn? Maybe the hubs aren't locking in. If the hubs don't lock, then even if the transfercase is functioning you still won't turn the front tires. Hope this helps, Shaun
You should check the power steering fluid level first. However, you said the noise gets louder if you turn the wheel. That sounds like a front hub bearing. To check the front and rear hubs, raise the tires off the ground one at a time. Try to move the tire in & out at the top, sides and bottom. spin the tire if you can. Only a tiny amount of play, if any, is acceptable. If you hear or feel rumbling or roughness when turning the tire, the hub is bad and must be replaced
I have the same problem with my 2008 Hummer H3. I had the front and rear rotors resurfaced. I am now thinking of getting the rotors replaced with bigger more durable rotors. Solution about the sticking brake caliper sounds about right if you hear a grinding noise as you drive without even touching the brake pedal.
It sounds like it is a front end suspension problem. The following should be checked: upper and lower ball joints, the sway bars links, and even the shocks. Replace what is problematic, and your front-end noise should disappear, if it is a front suspension problem. Hopefully, this will FixYa problem!
I destroyed one on my Audi that way. What you should do is go at it from the opposite side. Find a way to gain access to the inside of the hub (axle must be removed from the hub first), and gently tap it out. I did this on the next Audi I worked on, and by using a 6" 3/8 drive extension, I was able to put the extension on the sensor's head (inside the hub), and tap it out gently, and it came right out. Try removing it from the body of the sensor outside the hub, and you'll destroy it trying to remove it.
Only way for this to happen on an H2 (AWD) is for something to break rearward of the lockup hub. Take a look at the splines between the intermediate shaft and centerdifferential or even the teeth on the forward sun gear and/or stepped pinion on the center diff.
As long as you have the t-case torn down for repair be sure to upgrade to the new aluminum mode fork (production upgrade to old plastic forks thru end of 2007 or so). You should also upgrade the rear half of the housing to the 2008 version which has a pressed-in rear prop bushing (better bushing and is also replaceable.
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