Front brake pins does one with the rubber go on top or bottom

Will the pin move at all? Sometimes the pins ( if they are not seized due to torn rubber boots or lack of grease ) can be stiff to remove. You may have to put the bracket in a vise and use a pair of pliars/vicegrips and twist and pull for removal. Make sure the pin is completely clean and rust free along with a liberal amount of synthetic brake grease applied to it prior to installation

If this is a Pin Slider, here is 1996 steps:

Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 4x2, 4x4, Bronco and F-Super Duty Vehicles Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Caliper
Heavy-Duty Rail Slider, F-Super Duty
Replace brake shoe and lining (2001) as follows when the lining is worn to a minimum thickness of 0.794mm (1/32 inch) above the front disc brake rotor shield. CAUTION: Always replace all brake shoes and linings on an axle. Never replace only one wheel (1007).
Removal

1. To avoid fluid overflow when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip part of the brake fluid out of the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Discard the removed fluid.
   

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Place an appropriate size C-clamp on the disc brake caliper with end of clamp against caliper and end of screw against outer shoe. Tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper pistons in the cylinder bores. Remove the clamp. Do not use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry caliper pistons (2196) away from the front disc brake rotor (1125).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Clean excess dirt from area around pin tabs.
   

1. Tap upper caliper pin toward inboard side until pin tabs touch the front wheel spindle.
   

1. Using Hydraulic Caliper Pin Remover D89T-2196-A or equivalent and a light hammer, drive the pin from the disc brake caliper as follows:
   
   1. Position the notched end of the tool against the caliper pin (retention tab half), at a 45-degree angle from the pin retention tabs.
      
      
      
      
   1. Tap the tool with the hammer to compress the retention tabs.
      
      
      
      
   1. As the retention tabs are compressed, move the tool to gain a straight approach to the caliper pin, and continue tapping to drive the caliper pin through the caliper/spindle groove.

1. Repeat removal procedure for lower caliper pin.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not let the disc brake caliper hang by the front brake hose (2078). The front brake hose could become stretched or twisted which can cause the front brake hose to leak and rupture, resulting in failure.
   Remove the disc brake caliper from the front disc brake rotor. If the disc brake caliper is to be removed for service, remove the front brake hose from the disc brake caliper. Plug the end of the front brake hose to prevent fluid loss and entry of air into the system. If the disc brake caliper is not to be removed, wire it up to the frame of the vehicle to avoid damage to the front brake hose.
   

Installation
CAUTION: Always replace all brake shoes and linings on an axle. Never replace only one wheel.

1. NOTE: There is a raised section at one end of each shoe so installation can be made in one direction only.
   
   Install new inner and outer lining.
   

1. Lubricate the knuckle upper and lower inner pad grooves and caliper grooves with Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease, Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A. Install the disc brake caliper on a front wheel spindle, making sure the mounting surfaces are free of dirt.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not allow the tabs of the caliper pin to be tapped too far into the spindle groove. If this happens it will be necessary to tap the other end of the caliper pin until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the caliper pin must be free to catch on the spindle flanks.
   Position caliper pin with the pin retention tabs oriented adjacent to the spindle groove.
   

1. Tap the caliper pin on the outboard end with a hammer. Continue tapping the caliper pin inward until the retention tabs on the sides of the caliper pin contact the spindle face. Repeat procedure for the lower caliper pin.
   
   
   

Tools

Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer
Phillips Screwdriver
9/16 Socket and ratchet (not a deep socket)
Large C-Clamp
Center Punch

1. Put front of vehicle on jack stands. Brace back wheels
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Using the C-Clamp squeeze the caliper so the piston goes back inside the caliper.
4. Using the 9/16 socket undo the 2 bolts that go through a rubber boot. There's one on the top of the caliper and the other one is the bottom of caliper. The reason I said not to use a deep socket is that the torsion bar link is kinda in the way so you can't fit a deep socket in there.
5. Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the wire retaining clips. One wraps around the top pin that holds the brake pads together and the other clips onto the top and bottom pin. Remove the one that goes from the top pin to the bottom pin. You will not be able to take the other one out just yet.
6. Using your center punch or screw driver tap both pins out of the caliper. You will at this point be able to remove the other wire retaining clip.
7. At this point the caliper should be loose and you should be able to remove it. If you are just changing the brake pads then you're half way done. Replace old pads with new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
8. If you are replacing the rotors as well then all you need to do is loosen both Phillips head screws that are holding the rotors to the hub. Be careful with the screws I happened to strip the head on one of these babies and let me tell ya it wasn't easy taking it out. Once the screws are removed the rotor should come right off. Might need a hammer to persuade it a little.

9. Install new rotor and brake pads and you are done.

I usually remove the caliper, use penetrating fluid (PB Blaster) and loosen the slider pin. You buy new ones if it's too corroded where a burnishing can't clean it up.

Make sure you use a springs brush to clean out the caliper where the slider pin goes. I always use some good hi-temp grease and some anti-sieze where the slider is exposed to the air outside of the caliper. Make sure the rubber boot is not torn. these can be replaced too.

New boots and slider pins are not part of the standard pad kit.

This worked for me.

1.Put front of vehicle on jack stands. Brace back wheels
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Using the C-Clamp squeeze the caliper so the piston goes back inside the caliper.
4. Using the 9/16 socket undo the 2 bolts that go through a rubber boot. There's one on the top of the caliper and the other one is the bottom of the [brake caliper. The reason I said not to use a deep socket is that the torsion bar link is kinda in the way so you can't fit a deep socket in there.
5. Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the wire retaining clips. One wraps around the top pin that holds the brake pads together and the other clips onto the top and bottom pin. Remove the one that goes from the top pin to the bottom pin. You will not be able to take the other one out just yet.
6. Using your center punch or screw driver tap both pins out of the caliper. You will at this point be able to remove the other wire retaining clip.
7. At this point the caliper should be loose and you should be able to remove it. If you are just changing the brake pads then you're half way done. Replace old pads with new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
8. If you are replacing the rotors as well then all you need to do is loosen both Phillips head screws that are holding the rotors to the hub. Be careful with the screws I happened to strip the head on one of these babies and let me tell ya it wasn't easy taking it out. Once the screws are removed the rotor should come right off. Might need a hammer to persuade it a little.

9. Install new rotor and brake pads and you are done.

It took me roughly 1 hour to do the brake job.
All in all it's a fairly straight foward brake job.

hi from uk the 17mm bolts you mention do not remove as these secure the caliper carrier and only need removing to facilitate disc/rotor renewal to remove caliper only if you check the rear of caliper you will see two 13mm blts top and bottom of caliper these bolts pass thro conveluted rubber boots into slide pins bolts screw into these pins and the caliper is what is known as floating caliper this means only one piston operation on caliper then caliper slides on pins tou operate both pads when brakes applied so remove the two bolts and the steel spring on front face of caliper ?(remember how it fits !) then caliper slides off the rotor leaving pads in place on the carrier you then prise out pads/wirebrush carrier points where new pads are to fit then push caliper piston back then refit caliper in reverse order ADVICE= before refitting caliper smear alittle copper grease on rear metal side of each pad this prevents squeeling of pads when braking also pull out the to pins mentioned above that fit into carrier top/bottom wipe clean and put /smear copper grease on these too then refit and push in till rubber boots reseat on the carrier lips ? when you have done both sides brakes bleed calipers this is a must ! and when you do you will see dirty fluid emmited on the fist couple of pumps on b/pedal then clean fluid ? this WILL improve b/pedal travel and more positive ? the dirty fluid is o/heated /burnt fluid which becomes compressable giving soft pedal when operated and is due to heat transfer from disc/pads over time and is conducted thro caliper piston to fluid that is why it is recommended you bleed/flush hydraulics at least 2year intervals hope the above helps you and understandable best wishes from uk

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Disc Brakes
See Figures 1 through 8
Always replace the brake pads in sets, meaning BOTH front wheels.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it safely using jackstands, then remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the lower caliper lock pin.

The Saturn brake pad replacement procedure states that after removing the lower caliper pin, you can simply pivot the caliper to a vertical position in order to remove the brake pads. This procedure, when attempted on a 1992 SC with ABS, looked as if it would place excessive stress on the brake line. No changes in steering position seemed to alleviate this tension, so a full pivot for pad removal was not attempted. Another option is to remove the upper caliper pin, but not the lower pin, and simply pivot the caliper down for possible access. However, to prevent damage to the brake line you may wish to remove both guide pins and support the caliper assembly from the strut using a coat hanger or length of wire.

1. Pivot the caliper up or down on either guide pin or remove both guide pins and support the caliper from the strut using a coat hanger or length of wire.
2. Remove the 2 brake pads and the pad clips from the caliper support Discard the old pad clips.
3. Check the caliper pins, pin boots and the piston boot for deterioration or damage.

To install:

1. Either by hand or using a C-clamp, bottom the piston all the way into the caliper bore.
2. Carefully lift the inner edge of the piston boot by hand to release any trapped air.
3. Install new pad clips into the caliper support.
4. Install the inner and outer brake pads into the support. If installed, remove the temporary support wire from the caliper.
5. Pivot or position the caliper body on the upper guide pin into position. Compress the boots by hand as the caliper is positioned onto the support.
6. Lubricate the smooth ends of the lock and guide pins with silicone grease, then install the pin and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm). Do not get grease on the pin threads.
7. Repeat the procedure for the opposite side brake pads.

They should both have rubber sleeves. It keeps 'gunk' out of the caliper area for the caliper bolt.
(The hole)

Is the other rubber sleeve, stuck in the caliper bolt hole where you can't see it?

1. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip some brake fluid out of the larger reservoir.
2. Jack up the front of the truck, support it on jackstands, and remove the wheels.
3. Place an 8 in. (203mm) C-clamp on the caliper and tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper piston in the cylinder bore. Bear the clamp on the outer pad. NEVER PRESS DIRECTLY ON THE PISTON! Remove the C-clamp.
4. Clean the excess dirt from around the caliper pin tabs.
5. Drive the upper caliper pin inward until the tabs on the pin touch the spindle.
6. Insert a small prybar into the slot provided behind the pin tabs on the inboard side of the pin.
7. Using needlenose pliers, compress the outboard end of the pin while, at the same time, prying with the prybar until the tabs slip into the groove in the spindle.
8. Place the end of a 7⁄16 in. (11mm) punch against the end of the caliper pin and drive the pin out of the caliper slide groove.
9. Repeat this procedure for the lower pin.
10. Lift the caliper off of the rotor.
11. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring. NOTE: Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose. To install:
    
12. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and spindle assembly which contact each other during the sliding action of the caliper.
13. Place a new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the inboard shoe. Make sure that the tabs on the clip are positioned correctly and the loop-type spring is away from the rotor.
14. Place the lower end of the inner brake pad in the spindle assembly pad abutment, against the anti-rattle clip, and slide the upper end of the pad into position. Be sure that the clip is still in position.
15. Check and make sure that the caliper piston is fully bottomed in the cylinder bore. Use a large C-clamp, bearing on a piece of wood, to bottom the piston, if necessary.
16. Position the outer brake pad on the caliper, and press the pad tabs into place with your fingers. If the pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a C-clamp. Be careful not to damage the lining with the clamp. Bend the tabs to prevent rattling.
17. Position the caliper on the spindle assembly. Lightly lubricate the caliper sliding grooves with caliper pin grease.
18. Position the a new upper pin with the retention tabs next to the spindle groove. NOTE: Don't use the bolt and nut with the new pin.
    
19. Carefully drive the pin, at the outboard end, inward until the tabs contact the spindle face.
20. Repeat the procedure for the lower pin. WARNING
    Don't drive the pins in too far, or it will be necessary to drive them back out until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the pin MUST be free to catch on the spindle sides!
    
21. Install the wheels.

You will have to take the wheel off, then try to use a latge screw driver to pry between the old pads and the rotor to push the old pads back some, this will allow you to remove the caliper easier later. Next get a T-45 socket and remove both the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper. Tilt the brake caliper at the top or the bottom (it different for both side), and slide it off. Then you can just remove the pads. Be careful to notice that the shims on the caliper slide are different from top to bottom, don't mix them up. Pull the caliper slide pins out and inspect the boot for hole or cracks and the pins for rust, replace if any of these condition exist. Use some brake silicone grease to lube the slide pins and put a little into each boot and put the slide pins back in. Check the rubber boots on the caliper pistions to make sure they are not leaking any fluid or ripped. Use one of the old brake pads and a C-clamp to push both pistons on one caliper back in until they are flush. Check to make sure that no fluid leaked out of the caliper pistons while they were being pushed back in. If you want to do what is call a pad slap only then you can install that pads at this time but that is not recommended. It is recommened that you measure, check and turn the rotors if at all possible or replace them, the wheel seals and check and repack the wheel bearings.