Why does the red light keeps blinking on lock and car icon on the dashboard?

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A possible dashboard symbol:

https://www.directline.com/car-cover/understanding-car-dashboard-warning-lights

"Brake system light. The first thing to do if you see this symbol glowing on the dashboard is check the handbrake hasn't been left on. ... That could relate to the worn condition of the brake pads or discs, a lack of fluid in the system or a problem with the anti-lock brakes (ABS) or stability control (ESP)."

Make, model and year of automobile.

Color of dashboard symbol or icon, and is it flashing?

Look in the owner's manual and find out what that light is telling you. I know whatever it is it is not good.

There is a fuel reset button you need to find. It will be in your manual. When the fuel pressure goes down too far it activates your shut off switch to keep you from dry firing your engine and ruining it. In a car it is usually on the passenger side behind the kick panel. It could be in the same on your truck but mine is in the back left by the lift gate behind a concealed panel.

You have to be more specific about what Red Alarm is flashing, now days cars have a dozen Red Alarms and Amber Alarms all located in the cluster, what is the icon or symbol on the Red Alarm that is flashing ?

are you irish ?? thats your alarm light warning and its meant to blink to warn any would be tea leaves that this vehicle is alarmed with a chipped key ,actually you better off leaving it unlocked as then the windows will not get broke by a junkie looking to see if you have any emergency cash in the glove box

Left side dashboard facing the door. Remove the oblong panel.

The fuse panel diagram is in your owners manual, if you don't have one, go to Jeep.com and download it for free.

Fuse Panel Description
Cavity Fuse Description

• 1 15 Amp Blue Horn Relay, Power Sunroof Relay, Power Window Relay
  

• 2 10 Amp Red Rear Fog Lights (Export Only)
  

• 3 20 Amp Yellow Cigar Lighter
  

• 4 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Right

• 5 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Left

• 6 20 Amp Yellow Body Control Module/Power Door Locks
  

• 7 10 Amp Red Left Park Light/Left Tail Lamp/License Plate Lamp
  

• 8 Spare

• 9 10 Amp Red Right Park Light/RightTail Lamp/License Plate Lamp/ Cluster
  

• 10 Spare

• 11 15 Amp Blue Flasher

• 12 15 Amp Blue Stop Lights

• 13 10 Amp Red Body Control Module/ CMTC/Cluster/Pass. Airbag On,Off Indicator, Auto Daylight Mirror/Light Bar Switch (Renegade Only)
  

• 14 10 Amp Red PDC Fuel Pump/AC Clutch, Starter Relay/Engine Controller/Transmission Controller (Diesel Only)
  

• 15 Spare

• 16 20 Amp Yellow Power Outlet (Rear)
  

• 17 15 Amp Blue Rear Wiper

it is the imobliser

its th factory instaalled security system activating.

It's part of the security system -- it let's you (and any potential thief) know that the system is armed. You can turn it off by not locking the car up when you leave, but that's not a very good idea. Other than that, maybe you could just cover it up.

Water-cooled engines supply heat for the passenger compartment by circulating hot coolant through a radiator-like heater core. The passenger compartment fan forces air through this heater core and into the passenger area. The flow of coolant for this purpose can be controlled with a valve in the line that is adjusted when the heat control is moved or via a flap that blocks or opens the air path through the heater core to adjust temperature.
The effect you describe can be caused by several different sources:
- A slipping belt which turns the water pump. - A partially collapsed hose in the circuit for the heater, causing a reduction of water flow to the heater core. - A heater core internally blocked from deposits from the water component of the coolant. - A valve which is not being adjusted through its normal range by the dashboard control. - A flap suffering the same limitation as above.
Another effect our personal vehicles generally show with age is caused by abnormally low engine friction attributable to a particular additive we use that reduces engine friction so much that the thermostat that controls coolant/engine temperature is wide open but the engine doesn't heat enough to bring the coolant temperature into the normal operating range. We notice on two of three vehicles, that rolling on a long downgrade (engine not loaded) will cause the engine temperature to drop below its customary operating temperature.
If you have a dashboard temperature gauge, watch it to see if it rises into the middle of the range or not. If not, there may not be much you can do other than flush the cooling system, making sure that the heater control is set to its highest temperature to ensure that the heater core is in the loop while flushing.