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You need locking pins for both cam shaft pulleys as well as for the crank. The cam pulleys each have a hole in them which line up with a hole in the cylinder head through which an 8mm bolt cam be used to lock them. If you are looking at the cam pulleys from the RH fender side, the LH pulley hole locks at about 5 o'clock and the RH pulley at about 7 o'clock.
The crank locking pin is in an awkward position and a bit difficult to access. the hole is behind the oil filter housing and the pin locks into a hole in the back of the flywheel.
Please note that if your cam belt has snapped this engine will bend valves. If it is a scheduled belt change then it is quite easy to line up the marks and do the belt replacement.
you will have to strip the car, as if you are changing timing belt/chain. then do your marking on cam shaft and crank. the replace the "guide" around the chain.
You can rotate the cam/crank into a positon that will not move as you remove the old belt, as long as the new belt places the cam/crank in same position as the old belt had them, it don't matter where the timing marks are. Leave your old belt on, rotate to a position that will not move or have tension on belt, (no matter the marks) and replace the belt. Make sure to recheck timing marks after new belt is installed by rotating the crank/cam back to timing marks, or just trust that the belt was replaced without the cam or crank rotated. Easy off, easy on, just make sure the cam/crank are still in time as the old belt had them located. NOTE: timing marks are there in case of a broke belt, or for a car that has jumped time. As long as cam and crank are held in same positon, and car was in time before the procedure, it don't matter where the timing marks are at during belt replacement.
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