Question about 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix

4 Answers

What could make my car surge/not start

My car started to stall while driving one day. I replaced the MAF sensor it was ok for awhile started stalling again. I replaced the Crank Shaft sensor and the fuel pump assembly dropped the tank cleaned it out. I replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and new plugs and wires the MAP sensor isn't more than 6 months old. I have substituted the Following sensors from an 99 grand prix gtp, ECM, TPS, MAF, IAC, coil packs, EGR and found no change. I have removed and flushed the radiator inspected the fans. I have checked for grounds at the PCM on the motor found good gnd conn. I have checked the Throttle position sens for .5 Volts to 4.5 Volts full range Good. Checked the MAP sens for 5 volts Good Found 5 V on the MAF sens all have good gnd to Batt and to motor. There is 5 volts on the EGR valve GOOD. The car as of today has not been drove very far and has been cleared of codes a few times, but still has Low volts on MAP and MAF sensors it will start but need a bit of gas to get going and about 2 to 3 G rpm level to get it to stay running but it might stay running for 45 min or it might die after it surges a few times and then it just dies completely like the ign got switched off. I have had problems getting the keys to come out b4 but it is intermittent the solenoid that controls the key release gets hot to the touch. The batt. in both remotes are dead, I have tried both keys for the antitheft condition (Pass lock 3). There has been an low pressure code thrown in the EVAP system and an Low on the EGR valve but it has not came back since a couple of Code resets. I couldn't think of why all four of them would be bad at the same time. I thought it might be a bad head gasket or I done something off with the intake manifolds so I replaced the front head gasket as well. The ABS light has came on and I don't even Know why that happened(?) At this point I am thinking of cleaning the ignition switch or bypassing the anti theft module, and also If I could find the resistor pack I would check that as well. Any thoughts or suggestions would be really helpful I really don't no what to try next?

Posted by J Hollingsworth on

  • 3 more comments 
  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 01, 2014

    I have pulled the temp sensor out and done a quick n dirty test with ohm meter and lighter saw resistance change.

  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 01, 2014

    I have checked the CTS. As far as I can see the data sheet says it shuld read about 2.7 to 3 k ohms at 25 C. I will how ever go and see if there is the 5 volt ref there. How would this cause no start or stall condition?

  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 02, 2014

    Poor audio but Quick time seemed to be best


  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 02, 2014

    Audio is best in quick time


  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 02, 2014

    Thanks I will look into the injectors and there connections. Ill have to find a data sheet on them and maybe scope em out at what ever frequency there supposed to be at.

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4 Answers

spacil

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You've certainly thrown a lot of parts at your car. Were you advised to change those parts by a tech or were you just using the shotgun approach?

A dirty throttle body can cause stalling at low speeds. Same with vacuum leaks. When the engine dies will it restart immediately or does it take a while? Is it after driving a while and the engine is warmed up or with a cold engine or just random. Have you checked your fuel pressure? You replace the fuel pump but you don't mention the filter. And I'm not talking about the little sock on the pump. Your car has one mounted on the frame rail I believe. You could have poor connections at any number of connectors, at the battery terminals (just a little corrosion can wreak havoc), or a problem in the harness itself. Try some of the internet forums for your car and see if this is a common problem. That's where I usually start with something like this.

But before you spend any more money replacing parts you "think" might be bad, I's suggest taking it to a garage and pay someone with the skill, equipment, and knowledge to diagnose your problem. You've probably already spent hundreds of dollars and hours more time on this than necessary and still don't have it fixed.

Sometimes it's easier and cheaper to admit defeat and pay someone else to get your vehicle going again. I hate to do it but when I've exhausted my knowledge and skill and I need a vehicle to drive, I take it to a shop where I've been going for several years. I worked in a dealership for several years with one of the techs now there and he works on my stuff. I used to be a service writer and he was the best diagnostic guy I'd ever worked with. When the other guys in the shop were stumped they all went to him. Check around your local shops, talk to them about your problem. Don't expect them to solve your problem for you right then. They might give you a few simple things to check out. But intermittent problems are the absolute worst because a lot of the time, if you can't duplicate the problem, you are stuck doing a lot of checking and testing hoping you'll find something obvious. When you find a shop that talks to you in a manner that you like, and they seem honest and trustworthy; ask them for some referrals. Or just talk to some of their customers late in the day when they start coming in to get their vehicles. One other thing, don't try to show them how smart you are. Just play **** and tell them what's going on with your car and whats been done to it. Let them tell you what's wrong, why, and how they know that. Then if it's something you want to fix yourself go ahead. But typically with electrical issues, by the time you've found the problem, you've fixed it.

Good Luck!

Posted on Sep 01, 2014

  • J Hollingsworth
    J Hollingsworth Sep 01, 2014

    I have changed and rechecked the fuel filter mounted under body it seems clean. I was not told by mechanic to replace any parts. The car has over 250 thousand miles on her an average days drive is round trip 40+ miles. The throttle body is very clean no oil or suit the gasket is good all o-rings are intact I saw no cracks on it. It don't seem to matter wether its warm or not. I'll post a short video this afternoon to let all who want to see first hand what it is doing.

  • spacil
    spacil Sep 02, 2014

    Watched your video. Great way to show what's going on. It looks like the idle drops off and then surges back up too high as it catches itself from dying. Seems like it would be related to the idle control system which would include the IAC and TPS. If the connections on either are poor that could cause the problem. But it seems more likely there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Couldn't tell from the audio, but it would be a whistling sound and you could check with a can of carb cleaner by spraying (use the little red nozzle) on all the vacuum lines and connections one by one and listen for an increase in engine speed which will be kind of hard to do with the engine surging. Or use a spray bottle of water and spray the connections, if you find a leak the engine will die because the leak will suck the water in and water won't burn. You just have to be methodical and make sure you are only spraying one spot at a time. Fuel pressure could be an issue, a collapsed or crimped line would affect pressure to the injectors. You could even have a bad injector. If you have Autozone or Oreilly or some similat parts store available that loans tools get their test light kit to test the injector harness. It's a simple matter of plugging in the correct test light into each injector plug and make sure their is a pulse at each location. If that's good you can pull the connector off of one injector at a time and see if it makes a difference. If you unplug one and see no difference then there's the place to look. I had a Dakota that surged kind of like yours and it turned out to be an intermittent bad connection on the harness to one injector. Once I found it I replaced the connector and all was well. Good Luck!

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Bill Hamilton

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See GMs recent recall of faulty ignition switches.. goes back to 1999 for Pontiac... Have a look here:

http://www.gmignitionupdate.com/

Posted on Sep 01, 2014

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steve h woody

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Dear J , you have done it all, only thing pops up is fuel pressure ,lines from tank to pump to lines to fuel pressure regulator to fuel rail , a pressure gauge will answer a lot of questions, it seams those things you didn\'t mention AND you mentioned every thing I could even image YOUR GOOD !!!!!! . so don\'t get angry when you read this I\'m trying to come up with things I didn\'t read, oh btw,are any of your relays over heating ? and causing shut down it all seams to come down to lack of fuel and pressure .

Woody

Posted on Sep 01, 2014

  • Bill Hamilton
    Bill Hamilton Dec 31, 2014

    Hi Steve: It's 4 mos. now and no resolution to this problem? Your answer seems a good one but sure would like to know that the heck resolved this one..

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Reginald Barry

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Have you considered the following, a simple small vacuum leak, that can be tested with a spray water bottle, is throttle housing damaged, I didn't see the CTS in your list of sensors why? last but not least, did you use a vacuum guage to check the engine?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/reginald_d1f35dc049b0256a

Posted on Sep 01, 2014

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