How do i get to the vacum hose to goes inside the wheel well (or so it seems to) on the drivers side.ii

Should be a diagram underhood. Need engine size etc. to find exact diagram online

Next would be the switch/es. there are two, one driver, one passenger. Check the passenger first to see if it will lock or unlock the doors, this side rarely goes bad. Then go to the drivers side whether the passenger side works or not. Pull the drivers side, The bezel holding it just pops out from the bottom. If the passenger side did not work, then two possibilities. one the plug fell off the switch, see it a lot or the switch is totally fried. Power goes to the drivers side first, then from there to the passenger side, meaning the switch could be bad but still send power to the passenger side. If the passenger side worked then the contacts inside the drivers switch is burnt. These can be cleaned and it will give you a few more years of life. You should try to clean it, whats the worst that can happen? Your at the point of replacing it any way. Just look at it they snap together. But of course if they are really cheap then I would just buy one.

Just find a vacume hose that has vacume to it when you accelarate with car running pull a vacume hose off from carburator check by putting your finger or a vacume gage to it to see if you got vacume if not accelarate the carb by pushing accelarator (left side of carb driver side) if you have vacume when you accelarate you can use that vacume line

The blend air door is stuck check and see if something fell in the defroster vents

On drivers side check actuator that goes to the parking park, it should have vacum, if it dose it's going be an actuator for the vent door's, if it dont have vacum then go under the hood and look for a vacum hose that goes into the fire wall make sure it has vacum, if the vacum hose goes into a resevor by pass it some time's it get clog, also if you have vacum under the dash with parking brake on, it should release when put into drive. more then likely that will also work once you fix your vacum problem.

small vacum hose i replaced it twice and will have to do it again it seems to happen about every two years after five years of age

you have a vacum leak in the 4x4 engagement system. there is a vacum solenoid on the passenger side next to the battery. should have 3 hoses to it I believe. check those hoses for cracks they go all the way to both front wheels. the ones in the wheel wells are usually messed up. if all hoses are good hook up a hand held vacum pump to each wheel they should hold about 15 hg on the vacum guage if not your wheel hub seals are leaking.

There is a vacum powered actuator on the front differential housing on the passenger side. It pushes one way for 2WD and the other way for 4WD. If it gets an erratic vacum signal it can cause the clicking as it goes between 2WD and 4WD. It gets it's vacum from two valves mounted on the firewall just behind the battery(to left). The white line feeds manifold vacum to the valves. Check for vacum at white line with engine running. If no vacum there is a break in line from manifold (not likely in this case). If vacum check the pink and blue lines by applying vacum to each one. The vacum should hold. If not check lines from valves to vacum actuator. If both lines hold vacum check valves. Remove electrical connectors from both valves. Connect a wire from one of the terminals of the valve to ground. Touch a wire from the battery + to the other terminal of the valve. Listen for a clicking sound. If no sound valve is bad. Replace valves(s). Also have someone watch position of actuator shaft as you move the selector between 2WD and 4WD. There should be movement. If there is an intermittent problem sometimes it will and other times it won't.

There is a vacum powered actuator on the front differential housing on the passenger side. It gets it's vacum from two valves mounted on the firewall just behind the battery(to left). The white line feeds manifold vacum to the valves. Check for vacum at white line with engine running. If no vacum there is a break in line from manifold. If vacum check the pink and blue lines by applying vacum to each one. The vacum should hold. If not check lines from valves to vacum actuator. Most likely it will be the actuator. If both lines hold vacum check valves. Remove electrical connectors from both valves. Connect a wire from one of the terminals of the valve to ground. Touch a wire from the battery + to the other terminal of the valve. Listen for a clicking sound. If no sound valve is bad. Replace valves(s). If this doesn't lead you to the trouble it's probably a mechanical problem inside the differential. However most likely there would other noises.