Question about 2006 Honda Civic

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Replaced 1.8 liter engine in a 2006 Civic after it overheated bad. Had to replace two ignition coils and it will idle smooth until it gets warm then starts missing.Loses power and check engine light starts flashing when test driving. Only code is cylinder 2 misfire. What do we need to check or reset?

Posted by Jeff Nestleroad on

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Bill Boyd

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  • Honda Master
  • 53,816 Answers

Misfires are from coils , plugs , HT leads , and injectors and fuel pressure . If the head got that hot then it is possible that the injectors have an internal problem that shows when they get hot and the electronics breaks down.

Posted on Aug 17, 2014

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5 Related Answers

txkjun

John Weathers

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: Honda Misses.

Pin point the dead hole and check that injector.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 honda civic vp. engine

go to autozone has then scan the computer it's free then with the scanner hit cler codes, If you disconnect the battery te computer will have to relearn all it's driving parematers again and set all flags, so any soft codes that would lead a mechanic to a fix would be lost until you had ll flags set. also it will lock out your radio,

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

Jerry Parmanand

  • 449 Answers

SOURCE: my 2002 honda accord check engine light has been

You did part of the tune up what about spark plug wires and spark plugs? change these also

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

pctech1

Jeremy Moore

  • 1940 Answers

SOURCE: Engine began to miss after

  1. Have your timing belt checked and replaced. Sounds like it may have jumped, or is stretched.
  2. If after repairing any timing issues you are still facing this problem, it may be time to have the fuel injectors tested and the fuel pump tested and replace as necessary.


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Posted on Feb 13, 2011

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Engine idle very lumpy and wanting to stall on gear down shift. Sometimes poor on starting until fuel gets through then car runs well but very smelly.

SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
  4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.
  1. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
  2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
  3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
  4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
  5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  7. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace EGR valve.
  1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
  2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. The engine may be overheating.
    The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
  4. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
    The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
  6. The alternator may not be working properly.
    The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:
  1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  3. Broken linkage.
    The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.
Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.
0helpful
2answers

Multiple misfire on 2004 gmc Yukon 4.8 liter engine, can't diagnose?

Hi kathy
I am sure that your YUKON engine is not idling smooth.
the problem seems to me like you have a vacuum leak, better check inlet manifold and the vacuum hoses.
good luck
0helpful
1answer

I have a reoccurring problem with a flashing check engine light flashing. the code always indicates an engine misfire. I have replaced all coils, wire set, plugs, O2 sensor and cat. The problem...

You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle?
Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires.
the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.)
Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead.

Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont.

Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it.
If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here.
If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue.
Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.
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Symptoms of a bad pick up module on a 1996 GMC K2500 Suburban

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.
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check your catalytic converter, and check to see if you have oil in the water or visa versa
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1996 Dodge Neon Will run smooth for a good 15-17 min. then stall like someone shut off the key. New coil, plugs, wiring harness,(mine looked like it got real hot at some point)temp. sensor, air filter,...

The code reads: ignition coil #1 primary circuit. If the coil pack has been replaced, then it is likely the PCM (computer package) is defective and needs to be replaced. That circuit is driven directly by the PCM. This information was taken from a '96 Dodge Caravan service manual (3.3 V6 engine with coil pack ignition system), and should be similar. If your engine uses a distributor instead of a coil pack, then the above code doesn't apply. Even if it does apply, the code implies a 'miss' situation, not complete engine stoppage unless the computer operates the 'automatic shut down relay'??
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