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The speedometer works from the speed sensor (top of transmission casing, near engine. The Odometer must run from a cable from the transmission housing toward the firewall and the instrument cluster. The cable is either disconnected, broken or worn. You need the disconnect it and turn it with a drill to see if it works. Source : I had a mazda where the cable became all rounded up where it connects into the transmission, I had to change the odometer cable. I did however change the speed sensor on my 94 850.
Remove the TV cable or transmission throttle cable from the carburetor or throttle body. Remove the upper bolt holding the transmission dip stick but do not remove the tube. Disconnect the negative cable to the battery. Drain the transmission fluid by removing the transmission pan. Replace the pan after draining the fluid. Remove the shift linkage and the wires to the neutral safety switch. Remove the speedometer cable by unscrewing the cap at the point it enters the drive gear in the tailshaft. If it has an electronic speedometer, disconnect the electrical connector.
Install the engine support stand above the engine. Remove the CV joints. Remove all electrical connectors from the transmission. Remove the bolts in the torque converter. Place the floor jack under the transmission. Raise the transmission just enough to support it. Remove the transmission mounts. Lower the transmission enough to have access to remove all the transmission bolts. On a rear wheel drive vehicle, remove the bolts in the bottom of the transmission mount. Raise the transmission enough to remove the cross member. Once the bolts are out remove the cross member and then lower the transmission. Remove the dip stick tube from the transmission by lifting up. If it is hard to come out tap its mounting bracket with something and it will come up and out. Support the transmission securely on the jack. Using a flat head, separate the transmission from the engine. Lower the transmission.
hope this helps
but you can also just pull the motor and trans for better access ive also got an 85 chevy im about to do some work on ganna pull and rebuild the motor which is a first for me so if u know any one i could also get some tips from help would be awsome thank you
Yes it is the cable type. The instrument cluster must first be removed. Depress the retaining clip on the back of the cluster to release the speedometer cable. Once the end of the speedometer drive cable is exposed, grip the inner cable with pliers and draw it out of the housing. Installation is the reverse of removal, but lubricate the entire cable. Use special speedometer cable lubricant, Not oil, for this purpose. Insert the cable into the housing using a twisting movement until the lower end is felt to engage with the pinion gear at the transmission. You can also check the Pinion Gear at the transmission, That is where the speedometer cable connects to the transmission. Some times these small nylon gears will strip out caused from no lubrication in the speedometer cable housing. If the above does not solve your problem you may need to change out the cluster itself to obtain a good working speedometer head. Good Luck and Happy New Year. From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands.
NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
Slide the transmission support rearward.
Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this).
Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines
Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
Slide the transmission support forward.
Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
Install the flywheel cover.
Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
Check to see if all under vehicle components and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
Lower the vehicle safely.
Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
Connect the negative battery cable. Recheck all procedures for completion of repair. Close the hood and remove the protectors on the fenders.
Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
The click you are hearing might be a dry speedometer cable. Applying grease to the inner cable will most likely help this problem. The problem is getting to the cable behind the speedometer/dash panel. You can also get to the cable from under the truck. if you crawl under the truck and look at the smaller end of the transmission, you will see the cable screwed into the tail piece of the transmission. Remove the cable from the transmission and pull the inner cable out of the outer cable. The inner cable is what spins and causes the speedometer to turn. Take regular wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand and slid the inner cable through the grease then put the inner cable back in the outer cable. When the inner cable gets to the back of the speedometer, you will have to slowly turn the cable and give a slight pressure inward to seat the inner cable into the speedometer.
Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
Remove the starter motor.
Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
Install the speedometer cable.
Check and adjust the fluid level.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.