- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
more than like if its just on door that wont look and the hoon sounds the door actuator will be faulty and you will need to replace the actuator.
To do this you will need pull the inside door handle off.
remove all door trim covers to access screw and disconnect mirror wiring.
remove all screws around door trim.
very carefully remove door trim once the trim is off you see a plastic inner door liner don't rip gently remove half .
look inside door and you will see the door actuator and lock,carefull lift up locking tabs so you can remove all door rods from actuator.
on the outside of door undo the 3 bolts and actuator will come out.
get the new actuator and fit it the same way the old one come out.
Before refitting the trim grab some silicon and reseal plastic to door to keep water out..
Jaguar 2000-06 - Locks & Lock Systems Power Door Locks - Removal & Installation
Door Lock Switch Door Lock Diagnosis & Testing
Visually inspect the following:
Misaligned door(s), hood or luggage compartment lid
Exterior door handle
Interior door handle
Door lock cylinder
Luggage compartment lid exterior release switch
Door lock actuator
Remote transmitter batteries
Door lock switch
Front electronic module
If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found,
correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.
Door Lock Motor Coupe And Convertible
Turn ignition key to position II.
Motor door glass to fully raised position.
Turn ignition key to position O.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove door casing for access.
Remove door water shedder.
Position PVC secondary water shedder for access.
Slacken and remove the door glass rear runner lower securing screws.
Reposition door glass rear runner. Mark the position of the glass rear runner upper securing screw.
Slacken and remove the upper securing screw and move the runner away from the glass.
Disconnect door handle and lock barrel (driver door only) operating rods from latch links.
Slacken and remove the three latch assembly securing screws and position latch for access.
Remove latch motor harness multiplug from mounting bracket and disconnect multiplug.
Release operating cable from door handle. Move inner door handle
to the locked position. Remove operating cable outer abutment from
support bracket. Disconnect cable inner from door inner handle.
Remove lock motor assembly from door.
To install, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. Removing door lock actuator
Remove the door window glass
Detach the interior door handle.
Detach the actuator remote cable from the interior door handle.
Remove the interior door handle.
Detach the door window glass run.
Remove the exterior door handle retaining screws.
Remove the front door actuator retaining screws.
Reposition the front door actuator and exterior handle.
Remove the front door actuator and exterior handle.
Disconnect the front door actuator remote cable.
Detach the door lock cylinder connecting rod (1).
Detach the exterior door handle connecting rod (2).
1999 Ford Explorer Door Lock Actuator REMOVAL: 1.Remove the front door trim panel. 2.Remove the water shield. 3.Remove the power door lock actuator. 4.Disconnect the electrical connector. 5.Drill out the rivet. 6.Disconnect the actuator rod. 7.Remove the actuator. ------------------------------------
Remove the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
Disconnect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
Remove the 3 front door trim panel screws.
To avoid damaging the trim panel, do not pull directly outward to
carry out this step.
Lift the door trim panel by pulling directly upward on the armrest
to disengage the panel clips.
Remove the exterior mirror control switch from the front door trim
Remove the front door speaker.
Remove the interior molding.
Disconnect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle
Release the door lock actuating rod clip.
Position the door lock actuating rod aside.
Remove the front door weather shield.
Make sure the holes in the glass bracket do not become enlarged
during the rivet removal process. If the holes become enlarged, the new
rivets may become loose, resulting in clicking noise concern.
Some vehicles may use rivets to attach the window glass to the
window regulator assembly. Use a 4.5 mm (0.1772 in) drill bit to drill
out the glass-to-regulator rivets.
Remove the 2 front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the
front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
Secure the front door glass in the full up position with tape.
Disconnect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
Remove the 4 window regulator assembly nuts.
Remove the window regulator assembly.
Fig. Exploded view of the front door and power window
components-2005 Explorer and Mountaineer
Position the window regulator assembly.
Install the 4 window regulator assembly nuts. Tighten to 89 inch
lbs. (10 Nm).
Connect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
Remove the tape securing the front door glass in the full up
Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the
front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets. Install the bolt
and tighten the bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), or install new rivets.
Install the front door weather shield.
Connect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle assembly:
Position the door lock actuating rod into proper location.
Attach the door lock actuating rod clip.
Install the interior molding.
Install the front door speaker.
Install the front door trim panel as follows:
Install the exterior mirror control switch from the front door
Position the door trim panel onto the armrest to engage the panel
Install the 3 front door trim panel screws.
Connect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
Install the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
Install the front door handle bezel.
Raise the front door window glass to the full up position.
Remove the interior door handle.
Support the front door window glass.
Disconnect the front door window regulator motor electrical
Remove the equalizer bracket nuts.
Fig. Remove the equalizer bracket nuts-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
Remove the front door window regulator by removing the rivets and
Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts and
then remove the motor.
Fig. Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts
and then remove the motor-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Tighten the regulator motor mounting bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
Your question is alittle vague,...so Ill do my best...If your van has central locking (all the doors lock when you lock the drivers door with a key) then I can easily say that the actuator for the sliding door lock has malfunctioned....However if you are implying that you cant lock the sliding door from the outside using a key then it is because the linkage inside the door has came apart (Both issues would cause the door not to lock with the power lock button) If it is the linkage this is easily fixed by removing the interior panel on the slider and reconnecting the metal rod to its rightful place, if it is the actuator you have to replace it by removing the interior panel..Good luck
I just bought a 1999 Suburban and all of the door lock actuators were bad including the rear (barn style door) while I was replacing the rear door acuator I noticed that even with the factory mounting bracket on the actuator it was causing the door lock rod (the rod from the keyed cylinder lock to the actuator) was on a bind......the solution I came up with is adding an additional 3/4" spacer between the factory mount bracket and the door attach point. this solved any binding and the door lock works great now........also I used a lubricant on all the doors where the rods run through the plastic guides, which seemed to help quite a bit! Hope this help's.
Got this idea from mpvclub.com: Get some stainless or aluminum sheet metal screws, drill pilot hole into the handle and into the receiving part behind, then screw in the screw. Do on both sides of handle (get appropriate length screw.) When done, get some putty or hardener to fill in the screw slot, let dry, then sand smooth, then paint with body color. Result is great and inexpensive.
These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your
location with front and rear rather then left and right because it
depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig
and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door.
2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I
think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be
inserted. Remove screw.
3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window
control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to
the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point
which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the
two switches from the trim panel.
4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at
the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw.
5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is
attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove.
6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier.
Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it
towards the front of the door stuck on.
7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which
holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold
the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods
and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are
not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are
separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two
metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place
with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator
housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from
latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I
don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door
frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a
****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator.
11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the
interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers,
facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the
left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will
push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch.
12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between
the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal
guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior
manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper.
13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door
14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and
gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks
and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00.
When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and
interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the
actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails
and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move
the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the
actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.