I'm having trouble with my 2004 toyota highlander, when driving a certain range the car starts to shake, at first I thought it needed an alignment and some new tires. Got it all changed and yet the car still kept vibrating. The issue seemed to do more with the transmission shaking while driving above 45-65 mph. It would stop when I down shifted from Drive to 3, and the car would stop vibrating. My car's a 2004 toyota highlander V6 AWD.
I do not know if this vehicle has a torque converter lockup or not, but sounds like it. Does the transmission stop shaking when you go over 65? Some vehicles have a torque converter lockup, which means when the vehicle is traveling at a certain speed in high gear the torque converter "locks" and there is no slippage to the transmission resulting in better fuel economy. if the torque converter doesn't "unlock" when you slow down to say 45 then the engine will "lug" causing vibration. If this is the case you are not hurting anything by driving, just shift to 3 when it shakes then upshift under lighter load, or take it to a shop that replaces transmission sensors.
SOURCE: 1998 toyota corolla shakes before 2 rpm, check engine lights up
Not sure what is causing it, but it sounds like you're running on 3 cyllinders. Check plugs, wires, timing . timing belt may have jumped, bad injector, low fuel pressure.
SOURCE: toyota vits 2005 shaking engine
Very possibly you have a bad motor mount. Is the engine missing or running smooth but shaky? If it is missing, then it may be plugs, wires, or injectors, if runs fine but shaky, then you may have a bad motor mount.
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Did they "turn" your rotors? They may have "improperly" turned your front rotors. This is common and they should correct this where you had the work done.
SOURCE: Need new tires for 2006 Toyota Highlander
The duelers work pretty good for me. But if I had the money Michelins are the best.
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Try rotating both front wheels to the back one at a time. If a tire has a bad belt; it may balanced but balancing does not eliminate a soft spot on the tire tread. By moving the tires to the back and road testing it after each side is done, you may be able to find the bad tire.
You have a lot of moving parts. A brake rotor could be out of balance, you can have a worn CV joint shaft, a hub bearing could be worn, driveshafts and U-joints can shake.
If you do find one wheel as a problem, have the tire dismounted and the wheel spun on the machine. You may have a bent rim and the tire may be good. Since the balance would help compensate for the vibration, it can mask the flattened spot on the rim. The tire will act like a shock absorber but ultimately the rim is not turning like it is round once weight is on it.
I would be interested in what you found.
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