With pump, fan clutch, t'stat, radiator cap, belts, and coolant purged of all air, the next :"normal" cause of overheat is blocked airflow through the radiator fins and AC condenser fins. Use fin cleaner-straightener and water hose flush both ways to clear completely. This is something no book or factory schedule ever mentions, presumably because mfr's want you to thing gradual degradation is normal sign to replace the truck. With 2.9L engine you will be surprised to find temp on temp gauge (if SXT) return to new-truck performance. Ranger really does have a cool cooling system of the six. T'stats are pretty durable and 190 temp does not seem to be that critical on the under temp side. I tend to change over every year anyway (with coolant change) before smog test. But that air flow really is a big factor in radiator cooling. Best place for fin cleaner is Harbor Express--they dont have ot cowtow to American car makers and parts distributors. I would post a pic but the file got carried away by someone unknown.
Run engine and check for flow in radiator, also check for foaming or bubbles head gasket may have blown . you my have a faulty water pump, check viscus coupling on fan drive, and belt tension
SOURCE: ford ranger truck overheating
I have had this happen with my ranger. Changed everything I could to try to fix the over heating. It turned out that I had a small leak in my head gasket and it was allowing exsaust gas to go into the cooling system witch was over pressurizing it. Also the air from the exsaust will heat up much faster than liquid making your thermostat to read hot and will not be able to blow hot air in the cab because there is no liquid going to the heater core. This happened to me when my blet came off and I tryed to make it home. If you had it over heat for a long peirod of time it may have ripped the head gasket.
A
heater core transfers heat from a 1994 Ford Ranger's engine to the
passenger compartment by running hot radiator coolant through a
serpentine of tubing. Air blows past the hot fins of the heater core
and into the truck cab.
The hoses running to and from the
heater core must be removed from the engine compartment, but the
core itself is accessed from inside the passenger compartment, on
the driver's side next to the center console.
1. Turn off the
engine, open the hood and remove the battery cable from the negative
terminal. Make sure the engine is cool.
2.
Attach a 3/8-inch interior diameter hose to the drain outlet on the
bottom rear corner of the radiator on the driver's side, and place
the bottom end in a resealable plastic container. Turn the drain
valve (located above the drain outlet) counterclockwise with a pair
of pliers. Drain the engine coolant into the resealable container,
then close the valve by turning it clockwise. Remove the hose from
the outlet.
3.
Loosen the hose clamps on the radiator hoses where they attach to
the heater core on the firewall. Remove the hoses.
4.
Unscrew the screws holding the underdash cover in place on the
driver's side of the passenger compartment. Remove the underdash
cover.
5.
Unscrew the four screws on the cylindrical heater core access cover
and remove it. Remove the heater core by pulling it down and toward
the rear of the vehicle.
Replace the unit with a new heater core.
6.
Reinstall the heater core access cover and screw in the retaining
screws. Replace the underdash cover and screw it into place.
7.
Replace the radiator hoses on the heater core in the engine
compartment. Tighten the hose clamps. Add coolant until the level is
between the minimum and maximum marks on the reservoir.
8.
Replace the battery cable and start the engine. Check the system for
leaks.
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