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Anonymous Posted on Jul 18, 2014

Bypass fuel pump relay on 2002 bmw 325i

On the fuel pump relay socket which pins need to be jumped to start the car?

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donny steele

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  • Posted on Jul 18, 2014
donny steele
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Change the fuel pump relay it could be any one of the pins

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 81 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 11, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 bmw 325i running rough

Did you replace your fuel filter when you did the pump? At lower RPM's the engine would be starving for fuel. Another cause could be your throttle position sensor. It is what shifts your transmission at predetermined shift points as you throttle up and down. It is also what kicks down your engine when you are stopping or slowing down as you go down through the gears. Hope that helps!

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Anonymous

  • 55 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: check engine light comes on but car runs great 2002 bmw 325i and

The check engine light could be any number of things and the only way to find out is have the codes scanned. The brake light issue is common on E46 3 series. It is an issue were the brown ground wire that goes into the lamp housing melts at the connector causing a loose ground connection. The connector needs to be replaced and also add additional grounding wires to prevent further issues. And for fuel additives either use the cheveron techron, or the bmw fuel additive(the bmw stuff is the exact same thing, so just use which ever is cheaper).

greg benton

  • 231 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2009

SOURCE: My 2002 BMW 325I will not start in cold weather.

hi Fred, kind of sounds like you have a sticking, or contaminted idle valve. when it is 40-45F outside, a sticking or contaminated valve will cause the fuel mixture to be to rich. as the temp warms, the mixture requirement is not as rich. a quick check is to hold the gas pedal to the floor for 5-10 seconds when cranking cold and then let up. if it seems like it wants to start, the valve is faulty.

mecanica03

ROBERT GARCIA

  • 926 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: how to remove fuel pump on 1989 325i bmw

remove rear seat and look for plastic big round cap

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Are you getting the ignition activated voltage to the relay? If you are, and you can jump across the relay to turn on the pump, I would say your relay is defective. If you know the relay pins for the ignition input and ground, you should be able to test it outside its plug in socket. You should hear it click when +12V and ground are applied to the proper pins/connectors for the ignition voltage. An ohm meter could be put across the supply +12V and fuel pump pins/connectors to really check the operation. If you think your relay is good. I would start checking for a bad +12V connection for your ignition supply, as well as the +12V that is switched through the relay. And the grounds to all. Use some contact cleaner on relay pins and socket. Ignition switch contacts can cause issues too. If it stays broke at least it should be easier to find than something that is intermittent. Based on what you stated, most of your troubleshooting should be at the relay socket (knowing which connectors do what) to isolate the issue to the relay, your ignition voltage, or your fuel pump voltage. After that it is knowing which step to take next.
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Do you hear your pump running? (humming sound from the rear)
If not and if you are sure your pump is ok, then there could be faulty pump relay. Find it and replace it with another known good one. Usually there are the similar ones in the box for other systems so you can swap. If not, then you can directly power the pump up, by removing the relay, taking a short strip of say #16 wire and jumping the contacts directly in relay socket. To find which pair of pins you have to jump look at the relay and find a diagram. There will be a pair which goes to the relay coil, and another which just a contact. You need a contact ones. Jump them and try the ignition, this in most cases should turn you pump on, and you will be able to start the car.
Next step is to check the relay. Ideally you have to have a pair of leads with "crocodile" clamps to connect relay coil directly to 12V source. Once connected, check continuity at the controlled pair if pins (contactor). If relay is good, than you have a bigger problem.
Your ECM does not send a power to the relay, and this could be because of the internal fault, or DTC code stored in it. For example if you have an electrical radiator fan, then your ECM testing it each time you turning ignition on, and if the test result is negative, then ECM shuts down your pump as a precaution measure.
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