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2000 Chevy Tahoe A/C started blowing fog & no longer cools good
2000 Tahoe / 350 - driving in 100 degree humid heat for several hours with A/C on high (Missouri, Ark & Texas). Suddenly it began blowing fog out the vents for about 5 minutes and since then it is not cooling good anymore.
Re: 2000 Chevy Tahoe A/C started blowing fog & no...
Have you checked yoour heater core? I agree it is possible that your evap might have sprung a leak. Have you physically checked your A/C compressor to see if your cluth is coming on?
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Jun 25, 2009 - Hot air from vents-driver side and cool air from vents on passenger side. ... The driver's side vents were blowing out hot air, and everything else wasblowing cold. ... you'll literally have to restart your tahoe/yukon at every traffic light to keep cold air coming ... I was also getting air only out of the defrost vents.
? 3:14
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lnd8UNcx6M
Aug 3, 2013 - Uploaded by South FL Mud Club
Suddenly hot air started blowing out the air vents only on the drivers... ... is a very helpful video ,I wondering if this part number apply for my 04 chevy tahoe? .... I have cold air out of thepassenger side, but warmer air out of the driver's side. .... 2003 Tahoe No Rear Heat Fix, Suburban, Yukon XL Repair!
Driver/passenger air vents blow hot then cold when using A/C. Back to cold when you restart the vehicle. Upvote (35) ... 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe ... I have a 02 Tahoe ,and the heat system is working only on the ceiling side of the car when turn.
natural for engine temp to rise in Traffic - Until Themostat opens ) cooling fan sensor kicks on fan . But Antifreeze is not just a Cold weather item . Coolant is Absolutely Necessary for Hot Days . You must be full to recovery bottle setting of cold when checked prior to start up . Coolant for your make / model is Reddish - Pink colour and should have a reading of -25 thats negative 25 degrees the Lower the Better even - 50 .. Why ?? - 50 is 50 %% antifreeze / Coolant Concentrate MIX Gives Hot weather cooling Ability or very cold weather starting / winter HEAT .
Odds are your electric cooling fan[s] isn't coming on. This fan should only run when the a/c is on or when the engine temperature has reached about 218 degrees. Once the a/c is off or the engine temp drops to about 210 degrees it shuts back off again. It rarely comes on at speeds over about 35 mph because at that speed enough air is forced through the radiator to keep the engine at about 198 degrees. I would start by looking for a blown 30 amp fuse under the hood. There may be two of them marked "Cooling fan 1" and "Cooling fan 2" or something similar. If the fuses are good you could have a faulty cooling fan motor that just isn't running. Hope this helps a bit!
your low for 134A should not exeeed 45 Psi and highs for 134A shouldent get above 300. When your replacing stuff are you cleaning out the residue from your evap and condensor prior to reinstalling Freon?allso adding oil. and vacumeing your system prior to charging helps to get all the moisture out. In high humidity its crutial for optimal cooling and when system is open to the humidity for some time it gets loaded with water and vacuming can sometimes take as long as 10 hours
It sounds like your air conditioning is actually not the issue here. If your a/c is working in the morning, there is no reason it shouldn't work at a different time of day. What most people don't realize is how hard an a/c system must work to cool off a car that has been sitting in the sun all day during a hot summer. Even if you leave your windows down to avoid the greenhouse effect (which can make a HUGE difference if you don't) the interior of your vehicle is still probably a dozen or more degrees hotter than the temperature outside. This is because only so much air can circulate through cracked windows, and because of the direct sunlight shining onto your vehicle's interior and upholstery. Even once the a/c system is up and cooling the air inside your car, it is still struggling against the heat stored in your car's interior, which is giving up its heat to the surrounding air as it cools off. This can take quite awhile, and if your drive home is a short one, the a/c system may never have time to fully compensate once the car's interior has cooled to match the interior's temperature. To make matters worse, if your drive home is one through the city, you can expect your a/c to suffer. The air conditioning system needs good, steady airflow over it's condenser (a radiator-type part located just behind the front grill) and lots of starts and stops in a city or heavy traffic area can obviously prevent this. Above all though, the most important thing to remember is that with even a perfectly functioning a/c system, you can usually only expect about a 30 degree drop on average from the outside air temperature. So, if it is 100 degrees out, depending on the ambient pressure and humidity (also things which can affect an a/c system's efficency) you may only get air that's 70 degrees out of your vents. I would recommend always rolling your windows down half an inch or so, and park in the shade whenever possible. Also, putting a sunshade in your front (and sometimes even rear) windows, and having your side windows tinted (when legal) can go a LONG way toward keeping your interior as cool as possible when sitting parked in the sun for long periods of time
Check this web site for auto repair estimates. Your fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. In my area, the job would run $400-600 at a dealer, $200 or so less at an independent garage, for the pump in the rear tank. If you have a tank on the left side, it runs about $100 more. The site will also have listings for independent garages in your area.
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