Overheating fan does not cut in when hot, fueses good cant find therastat, fan turs by hand. can you help please?

forename?
07 forenza (seems all posts are for this 1 suzuki)
a problematic car for sure....?
in what country, car has 6 engines, but 1 in USA>
so cant help you lacking where you are, (name a country,not your IPaddress)
we have the 2.0L engine, in USA< this is a USA forum so......??

ok the computers in your car are way smarter than say 1988 Samurai.
the PCM that runs the engine, for SURE cuts AC to keep engine from self destructing!! AC can do that,,,,,,
want a cracked or warped engine head ?
no.
the PCM cuts the a/c, and if engine is overloaded. or overheated
so forget the A/C
fix engine overheating (primary issues)
and guess wha?t , that gets worse, so delaying the fix
a $5 part compounds to $3000 new engine.
why not just get car fixed.???
"we cant teach you 50 years of engine problems in 5min time."
best post ever that.. here.

1: fuses good? check them it means.
2: water leaks?
3: levels wrong? (in actual rad, cold tested)
4: fan belts loose?
5: bad thermostat
6: bad water pump, impeller rusted to zip, do to abuse.
7: over heats parked only or moving fast or only up hills,? key facts if only parked the fan is dead.
8; lots more, but i end here

i cant help much no Peugeots here,.
but like all cars, they moved the engine cooling fans controls
to the PCM.
the PCM has programming that trips the fans at a specific temp.
the PCM reads the ECT sensor (main EFI sensor) and at about 215 or more temp , it closes the Fan relay.
most newer cars work this way.
but if you buy the FSM for your car, its all there. read it.
hot wire the fan, does it work>
test the fan relays are they good.
if yes, then it gets more hard.
on our cars we attach a scan tool to make sure the ECT even hits the
spec.temp, hot idle parked.. It must.

the FSM covers this , under how to test the engine cooling fan.
each car and ENGINE option is different. what engine do you have.
on newer cars the PCM controls the trip points.
it used the engine ECT to see the actual temp and software (firmware)
then enable the fan relay.
you said overheated but what did the scan tool shows for ECT
???????? only that matters, as it is FIRST in the CHAIN.
other engines or older cars have box that does all this.
i cant look yours up because alldata.com is USA spec.cars.

if engine over heating coolant over flow jug will boil over you will see steam.sound like you have either faulty engine coolant temperature sensor or could have faulty fans relay or fuse or pcm problem if coolant fans dont turn on.have garage with code scanner that can do a snap shot on coolant temperature sensor check see how hot coolant temperature is see if coolant temperature over 220 degrees engine getting too hot.could have faulty water or blowed head gasket check engine oil on oil dip stick look milkly you have blowed head gasket. i use infra red laser thermometor check see how hot engine is over 107 celsius engine is overheating.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action please observe the coolant hoses. If there's coolant leakage the car will surely overheat. Do check the rotation of the radiator fan blower too, if it blows weak the car will surely overheat too. Last thing will be a crack on the cylinder head, you will need to rebuild it if that's the case.

Let's just hope that the first 2 are only the issue to cut the cost. Engine rebuild will surely cost you.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

try this,wearing rubber gloves(cos its hot)undo the topmost hot hose clip and expell any air trapped.also use a hotwire to check
electric fan(s) if fitted.if they run it aint them.do they operate when idling and hot,if not then its the sensor.or if you have a viscous fan is that working.....when hot you will feel a resistance to turning by hand when the engine is stopped..another telltail that the thermostat is gone is,does the guage go down when you turn the fan on full heat for the interior??...cant think of anything else.....

check water level.... change therastat.bleed system...check fan ......if still overheats hhave head block test done from a good garage (could be head gasket)

check the basic, from fuse and relay engine cooling . have the fan check making sure the fans motor is good, does the fans come on at all when the engine has been running for while, if not it can be the switch, i would go ahead and replace them both thermostats and thermostats switch if you haven't done it. Thermostat switch has to be good, which it turn on and off the cooling fan. Thermostat (work like a valve) has to also operate properly other wise the fluid will continue to flow hot or not flow at all. thermostats will cost 7-8 bucks and the switch cost 47-50 bucks.

Could it be that the a/c problem is noticed more on hot days when a malfunction would be more noticable?

It is doubtful the window problem is related to the a/c problem. But a window that doesn't operate might also be more noticable when you are hot and the a/c isn't working up to par you will be more likely to use the window. But hotter temps have physical properties that might raise resistance in a circuit, or the connections can be affected by the expansion of metal in the plug connections or within the window motor itself. Take some tuner cleaner to the toggle switches it will help if the contacts are dirty. Or a good whack on the door panel where the motor is might get it functional for a while.

If the compressor is kicking in and out it is probably the high pressure cut off switch doing its job.

Usually you want to check the freon pressures to see if it is low. By deduction my guess is its probably not a low freon situation if you usually get good cooling. Hot weather only increases the pressures, so a low pressure problem would theoretically improve.

There are 2 things I suspect, but I am not familiar with your specific vehicle, so this is a generic troubleshooter.
This is my checklist in order of likelihood, provided you aren't low on freon.

Overheating condenser coil-gets too hot and not able to dissipate the heat exchange efficiently. This raises the pressures until the high pressure cut out switch cuts the compressor off. When the condenser cools off pressures normalize and the hi pressure switch disengages, allowing the compressor to compress again.

CAUSES: Clogged condensor radiator fins- clogged with bugs & debris. Clean with high pressure to get the bugs out. Flush them out from the inside to the outside so the don't get lodged deeper in the coil.
Bad condenser fan; bad fan relay, blown fuse or open in circuit.
Clogged condenser coil- Internal blockage. May require condenser replacement, but radiator specialist maybe can by pass the bad spot depending on where it is - may get frosty near blocked area.

Overheating condenser will show up when you are stopped in traffic, but when moving- especially at hiway speeds- you push air through the condenser, which cools it and lowers the pressure, keeping the Hi pressure cut out switch from engaging. Does the belt squeal just before the compressor cuts out? This is a sure sign of a overheating condensor.

The condenser fan cools when you're not moving. Depending on your setup your condenser fan may not be on all the time. On older domestics the condenser is behind the radiator and the radiator fan cools both. On most foreign & newer cars the radiators are side by side with separate electric fans for each.

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CONDENSER. Start your car, open the doors wide and turn on the a/c on HI. Let it run until the compressor cuts out. Take a garden hose and run water over the condenser- does it steam a lot when the water hits it-then it is probably overheating- Continue to run water over it- DOES THE COMPRESSOR KICK BACK ON WHEN THE CONDENSOR COOLS OFF? If yes, your condensor is overheating.

Remove the water and let it run until the cut-out switch engages again. DOES THE CONDENSOR FAN ENGAGE AT ALL DURING THIS PROCESS? If Yes: Is it blowing normally or sub-par? If blowing normally the fan and circuit are working properly.

IF NO- the problem is a bad fan or fan circuit. Test the fan by disconnecting the 12vdc plug and jumping with 12 volts from the battery. DOES THE FAN WORK WHEN YOU JUMP IT? IF NO- your condensor fan motor is bad- replace it. IF YES- the fault lies in your condenser fan circuit. check fuses, relays, etc for that circuit.

If this isn't your problem here are more some things that may be going wrong, depending on your cars components and configuration.
Clogged condensor coil- flush debris with air or water pressure to the front. Clogged orifice tube or other component depending on what your system has. This is not exhaustive, but it is the most likely culprits.
Good Luck and rate this solution please

Are you quite sure it is not overheating? Your mention of heavy traffic, ie. stop and go, would tell me that your radiator fans are not working. I had a car with bum electric radiator fans. It worked fine if it was moving a lot. But in slow traffic, it would get warm enough to have a vapor lock or something without setting the engine-hot light.