How do you remove the tensioner pulley on a 1998 Saab 900 SE Convertible 2.0

SOURCE: I need an engine diagram for a 1995 saab 900 se V6

A SAAB dealer should be able to print one out for you. BTW that engine is practically identical to the V6 used in a caddy Catera, and Saturn Ion. Those diagrams would be the same, so you might want to search that also.

SOURCE: how to relace clutch cable on 1995 saab se 900 turboon saab 900se

1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.

SOURCE: need radio code for 1995 saab 900 se

sorry but there is nowhere/body to find out what the code is...the first owner could have written it in the service book but "is that too much to ask...."you will either have to replace radio or an i.c.e.dealer may bypass the code for you .

Colin Stickland

• 22516 Answers
• Posted on Nov 22, 2010

SOURCE: I need to replace the

i done one of these earlier in the year and my old age means i cannot remember properly ,i done a water pump as well which meant removing the radiator and the AC rad ,and to get all this off i had to remove the front bumper as well so the radiator came out ,i took the belt tensioner off as well for something but it wasnt difficult as i remember ,that was it i think ,i had to drop the timing belt to get the water pump out if i can remember it correctly ,the problem is i do so may vehicles that i work from basic mechanics and the moto here is if its in the way remove it to gain access .iam sorry but iam sitting here racking my brains trying to remember how i took that tensioner off and for the life of me i cannot remember what i did or how i done it so it had to be simple for me not to remember ,funny because the owner of the car was here today with a friend dropping another vehicle off for repair .Sorry but i think you will have to ask again and maybe it will be fresher in someone elses memory .

SOURCE: how to change a alternator on a 1998 saab 900 se

I recently had the alternator fail on my 1998 Saab 900s Turbo 2.0 and realize that it's removal and replacement is not the most straightforward process.
While there are quite a few places to look for assistance in removing the alternator, many of them point to the 93 or early 900's.
I won't go into great detail of the removal of every single bolt, but will try and give a decent step by step of the entire process. I should note that most of the resources you find online are correct up until actually taking the alternator out of the vehicle. That's not to say the rest is easy, but getting the thing out of the engine bay is a chore. Many books and online resources give misinformation as to this process and it took me some time to realize that.
Here is a rough step-by-step:
Remove the air box/cleaner
Pry back the tensioner and remove the belt (inspect and/or replace)
Remove the tensioner altogether (some resources say this isn't necessary, do yourself a favor and just take it out, it's difficult but worth it and you can check the pulley, mine was bad.)
Remove the right, front wheel.
Remove the lower bolt that mounts the alternator. (Should be 5/16 or 7/16 hex, recessed)
Remove the upper bolt for the alternator mount. (This is very tough to get at but be patient)
The alternator will likely be stuck in it's mounts. Give each one a shot of lubricant.
While letting the lube set a bit, you can get under the vehicle (make sure it's supported properly) and remove the two cables from the back of the alternator. They can be seen just above the catalytic converter towards the passenger side of the vehicle. A universal socket helps a lot with these two. (you can also un-mount the alternator and spin it around to remove the wires, either method is of equal difficulty)
You'll now need to pry the alternator from it's mounts. It takes a fair bit of force but DO NOT hit your alternator with a pin/hammer. I ended up using a small tire iron and working it out by prying against the engine block. It will come.
Now that your alternator is removed from it's mounts you have the glorious task of trying to get it out of the vehicle. Some books and online resources will simply say to pull it through the hole in the fender well. After trying every which way you'll realize this simply isn't going to happen, curse, and start hunting online for a solution.
The solution is not to remove an axle or stabilizer.
The easiest way is to take the alternator out from underneath the vehicle. The easiest way to do that is to move the exhaust out of your way. This is not nearly as difficult as it sounds.
There are three bolts which hold your turbo header on to the back of the turbo itself. Remove these three bolts. The two top ones are pretty simple, the bottom one is a bit of a pain. All are 1/2" or 13mm.
Once removed you'll have a little play with the exhaust but you'll also need to remove the two front rubber hangers. This actually took quite a bit of effort and force but once you get them off you're almost home.
This next bit is important. Do yourself a favor and remove the front-most Oxygen sensor. The last thing you want to do is break the sensors or the wires. There is a second sensor right behind the catalytic converter, you can remove this but it's not necessary, just make sure it's wire is out of the way and you have plenty of slack for the next step.
Now you should have plenty of play in the front of your exhaust system. Gently pull the exhaust down (be sure the turbo header is pulled out of the mounting bolts) and hold it away from the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a gap where you removed one of the exhaust hangers that the alternator can fit through. Be very patient, you'll need to try a few different angles but it WILL drop.
Repair or replace the alternator and do this process in reverse. Getting the alternator back in it's mounts is a chore, but she'll go. I had to use a 2x4 to pry it into place.
I did this job in 15 degree weather, outside, in Maine. If I can do it, you can do it. Just be patient.