My first thought is the drive train, most likely a wheel bearing. That could easily be the problem if you are describing a constant noise that is noticeable when you start out and get louder at a constant rate until, at 65 mph you wonder if you will make it home. I can't be sure without more info, but it is easy to diagnose. Jack up each wheel, one at a time, and spin it by hand. You should be able to locate a bad bearing. I hope this helps. Dan
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer
i am working on a s 10 of the same yaer and problem i will post my results after tomorrow when i have finished the job i bout this truck cause of the forum i own one that is a great one and this one is for experimental purpose i will let u know so far you cant lift the motor with a jack or a hoist so we r going another route in the mornin
SOURCE: my 1999 chevy blazer has no power
Let's work on the speed and not mileage ? Two things . First the catalytic converter. Check for smell of sulpher or rotten egg coming out of tail pipe. When engine is turned off the exhaust should stop immediately stop coming out of tailpipe. Use a tissue to detect any slow exhaust you can't feel.
The second item would be the MAF sensor. It tells the ecu how much fuel is needed proportionate to air flow. Make sure your air filter is clean. It's the first sensor in the intake duct coming out of air filter. Good luck.
SOURCE: replace lower ball joints on a 2000 chevy blazer 4
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Testimonial: "Thank you for your directions this will help very much."
SOURCE: my 2001 chevy blazer makes humming noise when i
Is this a vibration or a shaking? One of your older tires may have a warp in the steel belt which is often more evident if the tire is now going in an opposite rotation than previously. This is easy to check, just jack up each rear wheel individually and spin the tires, if there is a warp it will be clearly evident. Thank you, Dana
Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice!!"
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer Power Window
i have same problem with my drivers side window and now as of today,the drivers wiper wont work???????
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