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Typically pads need to be changed more than once before rotors needs to be *replaced*. Most shops machine rotors when changing pads to give them a smooth, even surface. Machining removes groves that cut into them as a result of normal wear (or if pads are not replaced promptly). Machining can straighten warped rotors due to excessive heat / quick cooling. These are definitely NOT considered "worn out".
Worn out rotors must be *replaced* if they are too badly damaged, rusted, etc. or if they have been machine so many times that they are too thin to safely brake the car. There are specific guidelines that spell out exactly how thin rotors can be before they must be replaced. Mechanics measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer which reveal thicknesses to the 1/1000 of an inch.
first off, you need to buy the break pads, break caliper spreader, and you need to know if the bolts have a allen wrench head or a torques head, you can find that out by turning your wheel all the way to the left after you remove the front left tire, take a small hand mirror and look on the back side of the calliper, once you know what it is, you need the socket or wrench that fits it, remove the bolts, then the calliper will pull off by wiggleing it off, then remove the outside pad, take the break calliper spreader and place it the way the break pad sat and screw it pushing the calliper cylinder back as far as possible, then take the calliper spreader off and remove the other pad, install the new pads into the break calliper and replace the calliper back onto the router, (the round disc the calliper was on) line up the holes on the calliper and replace the bolts.......once you have put the calliper back on you must pump the peddle untill they are hard again, about 3-6 times or untill you cant go to the floor anymore. once they are solid again, replace your tire and you should be good to go.....................hope this helps.
You can jack up the truck on either the pinch weld or better yet the frame you should definitely use a jack stand to insure safety even with the hydro jack. They are only a few buck and can keep the truck from falling damaging the truck or worse you. as far as the lube.on the caliper slides they make caliper grease that you can buy at any auto part supplier and you can use them on the saddle mounts (the part the brake pads slides on) also if these are newer pads suggest putting a 30 degree taper on the ends of the pads about a centimeter wide to allow for break in period. If these are older pads look at the wear bar on the pads.that is the little metal thing that lets you know when the pads are getting low so you don't end up going metal to metal thus destroying your rotors.it's cheaper to replace the pads than to replace pads and rotors. never put any lube on the pads where they meet the rotor.
sometimes if they get a glaze effect they will glaze up causing squeaks. Are they very shiny? if so they are glazed. Also are they factory pads or aftermarket do you know? Metallic pads almost always will give off a little squeak. If you know how to take off wheel and caliper you can remove the rotors and bring them into parts store and they can turn them real quick for you for about 20-30 for both of them. Just do the fronts. if you say your pads are fine leave them alone and just reuse them. This will help renew the brakes alittle but when you do replace pads in future always replace rotors as well dont turn them with new pads. and if you can, go with ceramic pads. less likely to squeal but just for a few hundred miles untill break in is over.
YES Any Brake Material That Has Had Any Oil Contacted Should Be Replaced , The Heat Generated By Brake friction Basicly Cookes Shoes Or Pads into A Different Chemical Makeup, For lack of Better Discription. NEVER Use Oil / Fluid Contaminated Pads Or Shoes
hello , it seems that you need a new break pads , and if you an form that showing that the breaks were checked , so the dealer is responsible for changing it , i hope i helped you , and thank you for using fixya.
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