How to replace drive shaft bearings

Check the u-joints in the drive shaft. Are they binding up? Work the u-joints around by hand with the driveshaft out. They should turn smoothly and uniformly-any looseness or stiffness in any portion of travel is a bad u-joint. Not sure if u-joints on Nissans can be replaced, or if you have to buy a new or used driveshaft with the u-joints. At one time u-joints were not replaceable, but some aftermarket suppliers were trying to change that. You would have to check at a parts store.
Check the frame piece that the carrier bearing and bracket sits on. Is it still straight and true? Not bent from being hit from underneath (like running over a large boulder)?
Is the bearing still good? What is getting busted, the bearing itself, or the rubber insulator ring, or the metal bracket that holds it all in place? Unless there is a problem in the rear differential (like locking up), it is likely a mis-alignment of the bracket or frame it sits on, or a seriously bad u-joint, or a seriously bent drive shaft.

I am not sure your car has a carrier bearing, but if it did it would be located on the drive shaft between the transmission and rear end of the car.

(a little late in responding - but maybe someone will need this info).

If you mean the carrier bearing on the driveshaft - then you must have a v6 model. I would advise to skip replacing it and instead purchase a 1pc shaft (no carrier bearing). The cb is located near a Hi-Speed CV Joint which make changing the carrier a little difficult.
A new replacement 1pc driveshaft costs about $225.00
The carrier bearing itself may run $40-$140. ( http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/driveshaft-parts/carrier-support-bearings/gm/1993-2002-chevy-camaro-v6-pontiac-firebird-v6-carrier-bearing-new-f-body-carrier-bearing-for-v6-models-pn-s-3r80-40.html ) - for reference...
You could also check a junk yard for a 1pc oem shaft (most shafts there are bent or have bad uj's and will cost $$ to have fixed )
>1994-2002 f-body models all have the same length from the seal of the transmission to the center of the uj @ the diff.
>when looking for an oem 1pc shaft you will find them in Steel and Aluminum. Slight differences in length when measuring center to center of the universal joints ( 40 7/8" - 40 1/2" ) - but the slip yokes vary in length, weighted / non-weighted..etc = this will make it appear the the shafts are different.
>>watch out for oem shafts with the weighted slip yoke from manual 6spd v8 models. This slip yoke may hit the trans/exhaust mount that is used on v6 models.!!

Hello, Are the tires and wheels balanced? If they are balanced then check the drive shaft. This drive shaft transfer the power from the engine/auto transmission to the rear differential/rear wheel.
Now, on each end of the drive shaft is a flexible yoke, this splined yoke has a U-joint with four bearing cups. Two of the bearing cup is attached to the splined yoke and two are attached to the drive shaft. Now, on the rear differential end is a yoke but it has 4 bolts and nuts, it also will have a U-joint attached to the 4 bolted yoke and to other bearing cups attach to drive shaft. U-Joint is called "Universal Joint" Each U-joint has about 10 degree circular travel without any type of binding to the U-joints or the drive shaft.



Two things here. First, take a pry bar and wedge into the U-Joint and move the bar forwards, backwards, up and down. If the drive shafts moves in any direction and clanks. The u-joints need to be replaced and I would replace both of the U-joints. Secondly, if the U-joints aren't loose, then there is a good possibility that the drive shaft is out of balance. In other words, it has lost it small welded plats on the drive shaft and when you are drive you Chrysler the drive shaft is vibrating.



To replace the U-Joints and/or balance the drive shaft. You'll need to remove those 4 bolts and nuts on the differential yoke. Once the bolts are removed then push the drive shaft forward, it will slide forward. Now, under the transmission yoke place a pan/bucket/container to catch the transmission fluid that will drain out once the drive shaft is pull free from the transmission.



If you don't have a press, vise, brass 5 lb hammer, bushing, punches, then I would tackle this job of replacing these U-Joints. Without the proper tools, one can damage the U-joint yokes and the drive shaft. I wouldn't do this without the tools and experience. I use a cutting torch but I have been do it for 50+ years.



If the drive shaft is out of balance, then you will need to take to Drive Line Specialty Shop to have it balanced. Also, have them replace the U-Joints. They have all equipment to do this job. I wish you luck in your endeavor. GB....stewbison

if you don't have a u joint or bearing press it is very difficult to do, best bet is to reove the drive shaft and have a machine shop do the swap for you

Not difficult, whether you hammer them in and out or use a press, the most important part is to not permit the needle bearings to fall down while putting it together and to make sure the retainig clips are properly seated in the retaining grooves. Make sure to put grease into joint before replacing shaft as it is sometimes difficult to do once installed. If yours has any performance mods it is advisable to always place grease fitting "in compression", so the shaft yoke pushes towards the fitting during rotation. This helps keep the joint from bending or tearing apart under off-line loading. In performance applications I also recommend using either dana or lakewood joints.

its called a carrier bearing and that rubber you a talking about is just a support and dampens vibration caused by the rotating drive shaft. Best thing to do is remove the drive shaft first which requires removal of the u joints that hold it in place. Its normal wear and tear and not a difficult job to complete.. u joints have retainers that hold them in place. remove those retainers and PRESTO you are on your way!! Good luck

Replacing the mid-ship carrier bearing is not that hard.

You will need to unbolt the U-joints, seperate the drive shafts.
Unbolt bearing retainer. Take this to a good auto parts shop that has a machine shop. Tell them you need a new one and they will do the rest.

Probably a bad u-joint.

Hi! From the very brief description of your problem. It is quite a difficult job changing just the Constant Velocity Joints as they are pressed into place by Machines, probably better to change the whole drive shaft?
One thing you could try which I have had plenty of success with is to buy a Tub of Moly Thick Bearing grease and some correct boot bands to seal the drive shaft gaitors. Slip the boot/gaitor back on the joint and pack the inside well with grease.
Replace the ties/bands to keep the grease in and Bingo you should have eliminated/improved the C.V. joint noise/performance.
Good Luck!
Paul 'W'