1- i am worry about car temperature phenomena because when fan in auto mode then car temperature goes up, if i can fan direct then temperature not more high than auto fan status. 2- after the above problem car RPM down in after resting 2 - 3 hours or at time of morning and car in off state until car wormed.
Write your answer...my car has direct fan and starts immediately after ignition and in cool condition engine does not warm and looses power I want to know whether fan is direct or sensor is not working how to fix it
Cars have 2 things.
engine coolant temp
and HVAC temp
can tell what you are talking.
car is off state?
do you mean the engine stalls.?
try to talk in terms of what system in car is failing
HVAC (heating or cooling of passengers)
engine issues, stalls , misfire, lost power.
transmission issues, wont shift or slips or messes up some of 100 ways. as a/t love to do.?
Testimonial: "sir overheating problem, fans not on properly and speedy so thats why coolant Stream from bottle"
sir overheating problem, fans not on properly and speedy so thats why coolant Stream from bottle
second issue is lost power this may be related from previous one
engine overheating, what fans, cars have up to 4 fans. the lost power is normal for engine overheated and blown engines, the Radiator fans must come on at the correct temperure on all electric fan engine, Optra what engine,???? to post for engine, you must say which engine. there are 4 engines,. 1.4,1.6,1.8 and 2.0L each are diffrent, ill guess, at 1.6l as that is forum topic here. i will first disclose the Thermostat spec,"The thermostat begins to open at 87 C (189 F) and is fully open at 102C (216F). The thermostat closes at 86C (187F)."
this is the first fact for dealing with fans, they too have spec, for on and off. and how they work , next.
the A/C car has 2 fans, and the fan system varies by USA or not USA car, ( no country stated (sadly)
USA? 1.6L with AC. answsers, until you tell me..
A/C ON, 1.4L/1.6L Engine -- North America The electronic control module will turn the cooling fans ON at low speed when the A/C system is ON. The electronic control module will change to high speed when the coolant temperature reaches (239F) or the high side A/C pressure reaches 1 859 kPa (270 psi). The cooling fans will return to low speed when the coolant temperature reaches (235F) and the high side A/C pressure reaches 1 449 kPa (210 psi).
im presume the car only overheats parked and never moving fast.?
to test the fans is first (after actual AF fluid level checks in rad)
50% AF ratio checked 2nd), a tech, starts the engine and waits for it to overheat at idle. all do. because you ar not moving. (air flow)
he waits for 235F, for the low speed fans to kick on. then for the high speed at 239. if either mode fails, he fixes this FIRST.
the a/c on test would be first. sorry. but i dont know you have that.
one more fact , the boiling point of 50% AF at full pressure.
Mix 50% AF ? and it boils cap on, 25?F degrees more, 246?+25? = 260?F -270?F (varies by makers chemistries see bottle side)
270F is the boil point. so the fans turn on and prevent that. not moving.
if both fans hit high speed, its not a fan issue(dirt in front of RAD? or in the fins is next)
tell more, get more. when it overheats is key as is all fan actions slow and fast.
beside that there are 4 cooling systems, all controlled but engine ECU. The Hv240, mr140,mt34, and serius D4, but all 4 , the ECU controls the Hi and low fan relays. If high fails on both fans replace the relay if one fails, replace the fan. to test a fan , hot wire it, they can be tested on the bench and on car , unplugged, easy, dont get hit by the blades, ok?
login to alldata.com and read the engine cooling page , lots and lots more there.
car fans run in slow mode in auto and fast run in direct mode, so waht can i do?
may i replace the Hi fan relay/
or any suggestion please?
i did not find the engine cooling page on alldata.comAdd a Comment
optra LS 1.6
i have replaced the Thermostat valve and clean the Radiator as well
Chevrolet optra LS 1.6 Koria made
hevrolet optra LS 1.6 Koria made with AC
NOW i am waiting for your nice comments sir ? thanks for repply
car fans run in slow mode in auto and fast run in direct mode, so waht can i do?
please tell me how the fans work or not work , really both. at all times. if they both run fast and it overheats then its not fans.
as the engine gets too hot, both fans kick on to full speed, i guess, you are saying that it does that, if true then its a classic over heat issue. Thermostat bad., RAD bad or pump bad. The rad is easy to test, do a thermal gram of the cores, all core tubes , using an IR pryro heat temp gun.
lets do the list.
RAD full of 50% coolant, no air in RAD, burped, right.?
new rad cap if old one has cracked gasket or spring. check
new thermostat, the last 3-5 years, time for a new one and can not bet tested in the enigne. so replace it. not backwards and not upside down the bleed hole must be highest point.
then if still over heats, use a pyro gun , pointing to 2inches below top and bottom of each rad tube (finned tubes) all upper readings same, all lower tube readings same, (lower temp) if one tub read wrong, it is clogged , new RAD time or get your pro cleaned , removed. by rad shop.
point this tool at every tube. all tubes have thermal drop, from hot end to cold end, can be 50 - 70degree drop, tubes with no drop are clogged. end story, .
if the rad is not clugged then the pump has a bad impeller , maybe rusted 1/2 gone. this is last, and most hardest work so do that last. when all the easy stuff above done;
ipost this here, i cant see your overheat signs, no oil in rad filler neck, no oil in the side bottle (expansion capture tank) and no water in the enigne oil or in the A/T tranny dip stick ends. milky oil is water. also carbon flakes in the rad filler neck , at before first cold start up.
also the read and A'/c condensor are no full of dirt, leaves bugs or other nasty filth.
edit, also the RAD, radiator.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
the condensor is way out in the front of car.
thanks for your repply
fan works slowly but after the above recommended temperature , so thats why wather overflow from the coolent bottle
fan works but slowly after the recommended temperature , so thats why water overflow from the coolent bottle
the fans work via 2 relays, boht must work , both fans must work at the stated temperatures, 1.6L with A:C , i will not give you the schematic, with that and the 2 temperatures, for fans the tests are easy, right?
so the fans are failing, nothing else matters, but this, now.
here again is the fsm quote. on that.
The ECM will turn the cooling fans ON at high speed when the coolant temperature is 101C (214F).
you start the engine, and the fans are on on high. as it gets too hot. , why ?
the rules change (ECU) when the AC is on, so can I presume the over heat happens with NO A/C turned on, ??????
The rule for A/C on and fans on high is different its (244F) so keep it off or tell me if the engine overheats with A/C off.
now the schematic so you can see just how simple it really is.
all engines overheat parked, the fans STOP THAT from happening. that is their job1 and must be working right FIRST.
i think your system is the Sirrus D4 . so will post the drawing for that.
please post of overheat happen A/C on, or off, or both, please.....
the rules are NOT the same with A.C on, not at all, and are complex.
the drawing is marked with trip points. see them>?
acid test if boht fans do not have 12vdc across there pins, then the relays are failing, (most likey) across means volt leans touching the 2 fan pins, directly.
in low speed the fans have 6vdc aross them or 1/2 battery voltage.
all comments the D4 system.
when thing happen is key, im not there and therefor blind, but it is possible for the engine to boil over before the fans work right. this is beause the ECT gets air around it and the ECU can not read the temperaturs correctly. say a warped head/or bad gasket. there. but do a compression test now, so its not that. easy for $20 tool and 1/2hr work. i use a scan tool and monitor the ECT as it rises, and can see if it messes up, it must ramp up, step by step, and not change its mind, or you have air in the system. for sure..
here is what that looks like in real time, here is a bad thermostat (slow way too slow and too low) typical of any old useless thermostat.
the horz line is TIME, the left vert, is TEMPERATURE
that blue line talks, ans speaks volume of what is going on.
any scan tool that can data log live data can do this. even cheap scan tools can.
never drive an overheating engine, btw. we must fix it. and power will be lacking and damage will incure driven over heated !! and you never said, overheats A/C on , or OFF. does it overheat with the A/C OFF???????
A/C puts huge stresses on the cooling system, leave it off . for now.
there are 4 tests to do before condeming any cooling system.
does twin high speed fans works. yes or no, that means 12vdc to both fans no 6v.
here are the tests, compression test, done W.0.T, 150PSI min all cylinders, then the RAD pressure test tool called the RAD leak down tester, if that fails you have a leak some where (stop and find that) and last the the too called the "exhaust gasses
called the exhast gasses found in my radiator tool. links to each follows.
above is exhaust test.
and this tool
that is every which way to find overheat. caused by bad engine.
other ways are: carbon or oil seen floating in the COLD rad cap off neck hole.
steam leaving exhaust tip, and smells like sweet antifreeze , bad engine.
water seen on tip of engine dip stick or at oil change. milkly
if A/T tranny, the A/T dip stick is not pink, its milky, bad tranny cooler in the RAD.
best it to keep and open mind, look signs , do tests. and last the pump. if engine tests pass. here is what electrolysi can do to a pump. nasty .
if impeller is steel it will be rusted to nothing, (bad service) 
on one car, no many , say the impeller fall off. due to junky rebuilt pumps. not pressed on the shaft correctly. so open mind, STUFF happens, in the real world. lots of bad, random things.
bit changing AF coolant every 2 years, allows it to go ACID. this is natural, and the ACID forms a BATTERY, and eats the impeller to nothing. over time. the above photo is that.
you said.
fan works but slowly after the recommended temperature , so thats why water overflow from the coolent bottle
im not sure what that comment means, is it a question or statement, i think it means the fans are stuck on low speed, 6v. and so that's why? is that a statement or question. ill take that as a question,? yes, as stated above all engine (not in Sibera) overheat parked, and idling, due to the fact that no air flows across the radiator. and no hot days (A.C way worse if on) the RAD needs full speed fans, MUST HAVE the ECU decides when to turn on fans, not you, only the ECU, and it must turn on all fans, to 12vdc full power, when the ECT reads 214F (A/C OFF) MUST !
the only exception to the 214f rule (A/C off) is if the engine block
water jackets, are full of air. if that happens the ECT sensor goes NUTS., crazy , the ECU can NOT MEAURE AIR. at ALL. it can not. this is key fact on all cars now.
this is a chicken and egg deal, what came first. That is why i monitor the ECT closely
do ask questions.
Mr. Fossil I am very greatfull to you:) with best wishes
1- temperature increase without AC Running
2- fans starts in auto mode but when car overheating state and water overflow from outside the bottle
tomorrow i will go to machanic with your suggestions and i hope problem will solve
again thanks for your helpful comments and suggetions
you are very welcome, my wild guess is time for a new fast relay. Im guessing engine is ok and the full speed fan fails. due to bad relay. Its a cheap fix. if it works. but yes, a mech can find this fast. with his box of tools.
Mr. Fossile do u have service manual of chevrolet optra 1.6 with sensors and wiring detail if yes,
regards, your friend muhammad aneel
today machanic is absent, he gives me a next saturday time
i will inform you after the machanic visit!
ok bye take care your self
chevy dealer , has them
or login to alldata.com, here is the link
scan tool offers the discounted DIY offer. it is the best of them all.
no dealer?
im just doing google searches, not much here state side at chevy
thanks for repply
it is my pleasure. I hope you find a new relay and or true cause easy and cheap $$$
hi, Mr. Fossile How are you?
after the helping discussion with you my problem was solved. problem was only botttle cap was faulty
i am very greatful to you.
the radiator cap is always first thing to check, easy and the most cheap. the cap raised the boiling point of the coolant,. I hope you saved lots of cash solving this, Happy Trails to you !
mr. fossil, i need optra service, wiring diagrams, ECU detail diagram as well as sensors detail of optra ls 1.6
service manual
ant car ECU diagrams for case study
i mean any car
thanks for your coapration
check fluid levels. at Radiator. cold, check with scan too that ECT reads 180 to 200f. and if it goes higher, the fans must come on , this is covered inthe FSM it tells you how to test the fans, some come on instages. like 215F then next at 225 or have speeds.
i just looked on line at alldata.com this 1.6 is sold with 2 fan systems, SINGLE and DUAL, so you said FANS,so it must have 2, (not counting A/C) is engine overheating with A/C off?
FANS. check all fuses first.
oops double posted, im helping you on a fixed car, the RAD cap was bad.
the fsm covers that, the Factory Serivce manual. the ECU will set DCT errror, when the fan relays fail to close. 480 and 481, so best is to have a scan too, in you case the cap was bad, and the water coolant boils way too low. one funny things about cars, is the ECT hates air pockets and the fans run off the ECT, so as you can see, air in the system, will cause the fans to not work right, (so 50% is needed and a good cap and it must reach and hold 12-14PSI pressure, if not , it all fails.
mr. fossil, i need optra service, wiring diagrams, ECU detail diagram as well as sensors detail of optra ls 1.6
alldata.com, long in and read.
or Chevy, dealer tell them, i want the FSM.
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