1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jun 10, 2014

1992 olds cutlass supreme will not start. We replaced the fuel pump it works fine. Why is there no spark?

Was out running errands stopped several places and then got in and would not start. Turned over fine acted like out of gas. Replaced fuel pump it works fine now. Turns over but getting no spark to start it. Checked out several things think it may be Crank Position Sensor. How do you see if that is it and how do you replace it?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2009

SOURCE: 1992 olds cutlass supreme will not start, turns

yes it could be but first check your ingnition modual an coil pack

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Anonymous

  • 232 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2009

SOURCE: falls dead when driving, will restart after awhile

Did you try checking or replacing the coolant sensor? I think you should replace it along with the thermostat. Are there any problems like sputtering or any unusual noises or symptoms? Smoke, anything?

Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on May 13, 2009

SOURCE: 1992 olds cutlass ciera 3.3 l v6 wont start

Lets start from scratch. Have you check for spark? On all cylinders?

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 05, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 95 cutlass supreme.Fuel problem

change fuel pump also

matney68

Donnie Matney

  • 426 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 13, 2009

SOURCE: My 88 olds cutlass supreme FWD will not start. I

If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

  1. Connect a ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than 1 ohms.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite.

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Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it wont start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
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than relay than bulbs
last you may have to remove the steering wheel and than replace the entire signal assembly those are pretty much all your options so start with 1 and work your way down the list
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