2009 chevy aveo i have no dims.replaced dimmer switch and checked alll fuses..no blown fuses and still no dims.but i have brights

Did it start after you changed the battery? Normally you need to reset the security system and immobilizer.

Not having gauges seems to be a known issue,

https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+Chevy+Aveo.+gauges+stop+working

..

If your speedometer stopped working and stays at 0 MPH, you should have your car checked ASAP. The most common causes of a speedometer that stopped working include are a faulty speed sensor, a broken gear on the speedometer, damaged wiring, or a faulty engine control unit.

. The illumination is controlled by the BCM - body control module .
Interior Lamps Dimming
This group includes lamps which may dim. This group may use a combination of vacuum fluorescent (VF) illumination and incandescent lamps.
• HVAC control module, head assembly
• Rear HVAC control module, head assembly
• Radio
• Rear seat Audio
• The instrument panel cluster (IPC)
• The PRNDL lamp, with the exception of the current gear select position
• Power window switches
• Various switches
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the VF display, radio, turns ON at maximum brightness. When the park lamps are ON, all incandescent back lighting turn ON at the dimming level indicated by the instrument panel (I/P) dimmer switch. At the same time all VF displays dim to match the indicated dimming level. When the headlamp switch is placed in the PARK position, the park lamp supply voltage circuit provides an input to the body control module (BCM). The BCM then supplies voltage to the I/P dimmer switch through the I/P dimming lamps control circuit. The setting of the I/P dimmer switch determines the amount of voltage that the I/P dimmer switch supplies to the BCM through the I/P dimming lamps low reference circuit. The BCM then sends a pulse width modulation (PWM) voltage to all the interior lamps. All the VF and incandescent back lighting lamps are provided a specific voltage and are then grounded. When the headlight switch is turned to the park lamp or headlamp position, all incandescent back lighting turn ON at the dimming level indicated by the I/P dimmer switch. When the I/P dimmer switch is moved from MIN to MAX, all VF displays, as well as all incandescent back lighting respond from minimum intensity to maximum brightness in response to the I/P dimmer switch.


Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are ? Codes set in the BCM
DTC B2610 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 1 Circuit
DTC B2615 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 2 Circuit
DTC B2652 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 3
Circuit/System Description
The instrument panel (I/P) lamp dimmer switch is used to increase and decrease the brightness of the interior backlighting components. The I/P dimmer switch provides a voltage signal that will increase as the brightness of the lights are increased and decrease as the brightness of the lights are decreased. The body control module (BCM) provides a low reference signal and a B+ voltage reference to the I/P dimmer switch. When the I/P dimmer switch is placed in the desired position, the dimmed voltage setting is applied from the I/P dimmer switch through the I/P dimmer switch signal circuit to the BCM. The BCM interprets the signal and applies the dimmed voltage to the I/P lamps supply voltage circuit and the interior backlighting components dim to the requested level. Ground for the I/P dimmer switch is provided at G201.

sunroof fuse 1 20amp / power windows - circuit breaker 25 amp
both of these are located in the instrument panel fuse box .

It would be nice if we knew what first aid you have done so far. If lights, or any other electrical thingy does not work on a car, the first option is to check the fuses. They are clearly marked on the fuse box. If the fuses are OK, check the bulbs. They are designed with two filaments, one for dim, one for bright on each bulb. It is entirely possible that both bright filaments have blown, with the dims still working. The third place to look is at the relays, but it is unlikely, though quite possible, that you have a problem there. The relays are the little black boxes in the fuse box, also marked.
Finally, and entirely unlikely, is the dimmer switch. These have been known to cause a problem but as I say, very unlikely.

I don't have that car to check, but if the brightness isn't also controlled by the contrast setting of the overall dashboard, it's probably not adjustable.

CONNECT TESTLIGHT BETWEEN NEG. BATTERY CABLE AND BATTERY NEGATIVE, WITH BATTERY NEGATIVE DISCONNECTED. MAKE SURE DOORS ARE CLOSED, KEY OFF, LIGHTS OFF, ETC. ELECTRICAL DRAW WILL LIGHT UP TESTLIGHT WELL. CAREFULLY REMOVE FUSES, ONE AT A TIME WHILE WATCHING LIGHT.WHEN LIGHT GOES OUT OR DIMS, THAT IS THE SYSTEM.BE SURE TO REPLACE FUSES AFTER REMOVAL UNTIL YOU FIND THE ONE THAT AFFECTS LIGHT! NOW YOU CAN UNPLUG INDIVIDUAL COMPONANTS AND CONNECTORS UNTIL CULPRIT IS NARROWED DOWN, BE CAREFUL BECAUSE WIRES ON THESE ARE NOTORIOUSLY FLIMSY, AND BE SURE TO CHECK FOR A WIRE WITH A HOLE RUBBED IN THE INSULATION.

Your low beam relay might be bad or the dimmer switch is faulty. A possible cut/corroded wire could also be to blame.

Yep through the dimmer switch itself. The dimmer switch is either bad or the pigatail to the dimmer switch is bad.

I know this may sound stupid but I have seen people do this many times. 1st have you checked you fuse, 2nd have you turned the handle left or right on you headlight switch or there maybe a separate Dimmer on the dash you need to find it they have a dimming system somewhere. If this guys don't work it's probably a wiring problem and should go to the dealer.

Faulty high/low beam switch. Pretty common on GM cars/trucks... Switch is about $125 plus labor. CHECK YOUR FUSES first. See owner's manual for location(s)....