93 villager getting no spark

If your D16Y8 engine was running and then stopped after you took off the spark plug wires and distributor cap, there could be a few possible causes for the engine not starting now.

• The timing may have been disturbed when you removed the distributor cap and wires, causing the engine to be out of timing. You should check the timing and make sure it's set correctly.
• The distributor rotor or cap may be damaged or worn, preventing spark from reaching the spark plugs. Replace the rotor and cap if necessary.
• The ignition module or coil may be faulty and not providing spark to the spark plugs. Check the ignition module and coil for any signs of damage or wear.
• The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) may be faulty and not providing the proper signal to the engine control module (ECM), preventing the engine from starting. Check the CKP sensor and wiring for any signs of damage or wear.
• The engine control module (ECM) may be damaged and not providing the proper signals to the ignition and fuel systems, preventing the engine from starting. In this case, the engine control module needs to be replaced.

It's also worth to mention that the tachometer gauge is not related to the engine starting, it's more of an indicator of the engine RPM, if the engine is not starting the tachometer won't work, so don't worry about it.
I recommend that you have a professional mechanic check your vehicle to determine the exact cause of the problem and make any necessary repairs.

check coil wire--distributor /dist cap

When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet

Plug , coil or injector or in the pcm

How long since a tune-up?
Check for applicable trouble codes, if there are any? Your obd 1, you should be able to check for some codes, if the mil still works.
Check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, key on. Use a test light to check for voltage.
The spark plugs--plug wires--dist cap and rotor all good? Does the rotor turn when you crank it? If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, have helper crank it, do you see a spark jump? I don't know what testing you have done?
With bypass ignition it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking. With the coil itself, key on, should be voltage on both sides, if only one side, the coil is faulty. The ground for the coil should pulse, with engine cranking. I'm sure I've left something out? You need to do some testing.

I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

What size engine?

get a 20 dollar haynes or chiltons manuel and find the module and coil. always change the ignition module and coil every 4 no more than -5 years to be safe.

I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.