I have a ford 1101 carburetor flooding / any ideas

Was the carb sitting for years before you bought it? Probably the needle shut off valve is stuck . Where the fuel line goes into the carb, try firmly tapping (wack) the carb housing with a screw driver handle. If it still floods, its take apart time. Was the "experienced drag racer" a driver, or mechanic.? Apparently he don't know much about carburetors.

Hello Johnnie Thomas,

If GASOLINE is allowed to STAND it can VARNISH things together!

Either you have a stuck (or obstructed) valve seat...
(on the business end of your float)...

or the float ITSELF no longer floats
(freely: a malformed gasket can also obstruct free motion).

In principle the float bowl acts exactly like a "TOILET TANK"

When the fuel DROPs below the IDEAL level, the float (also drops) & the pressure released from the fill valve
(typically a needle &seat)...

Most carburetor kits include a new needle valve...
precisely because it is vital to the function.

Sort of a full CARB Rebuild... try cleaning the inside of the fuel bowl with Berryman B12.

Hope this helps.

if the carburetor keeps flooding out, the float could be stuck in the up position. tap lightly on & around fuel reservoir to free. depending on age of carburetor, you might need to put in a carburetor kit.

what type vechicle many things cause rich fuel mixture check code if you see check engine light flashing could have bad sensor like map sensor faulty egr valve faulty mass air flow sensor.faulty oxygen sensor.weak ignition coil.bad fuel pressure regulator.if you have carburetor engine could have stuck closed choke valve or float in carb gas soak sticking causing engine flood.

THE CARBURETOR FLOAT STICKING OPEN OR FLOAT GAS SOAK CAUSING TOO MUCH GAS TO ENTER INTO THE FLOAT BOWL FLOODING OUT THE ENGINE.

If the carburetor is flooding it is the needle and seat under the float in the float chamber that is either stuck, leaking (a bit of dirt caught in the seat) or the float level has changed or the float is leaking. Any one of these faults is cause for removing the top cover of the float chamber to investigate and repair the problem. (A crack in the housing cannot be ruled out although unlikely).

It sounds like you are experiencing a problem with the Rochester 2GC carburetor on your 1957 Oldsmobile. The issue you described, where the engine is difficult to restart after it has been shut off for a period of time, could be caused by a number of things.
Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. If the fuel level is too low, the engine may not start. Make sure the fuel level is at the proper level and that the bowl is not leaking.
2. Check the float level. The float in the carburetor controls the fuel level in the bowl. If the float is set too high, it can cause the engine to flood when it is restarted. Adjust the float level according to the carburetor manufacturer's specifications.
3. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump supplies fuel to the carburetor. If the pump is not working properly, it could cause the engine to flood or not start at all. Test the fuel pump and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the fuel lines. Make sure the fuel lines are not clogged or damaged. Replace any damaged or clogged fuel lines.

I hope these suggestions help! Let me know if you have any other questions.

This sounds like a float problem. The carbs have a fuel chamber each and the amount of fuel in the chambers is controlled by a plastic float and needle valve. Carb will require stripping and cleaning and float adjusted. Not a job for DIY i'm afraid

Flooded means there is too much gas and it blows black smoke and sputters when it does start, right? Flooded has to do with the carburetor, nothing else. There are little windows on the float bowls to see what the fuel level is. If the fuel level is too high it will flood. I sounds like maybe the needle and seat are bad and the carburetor needs an overhaul. If it sputters and no black smoke then it isn't getting enough gas and then your filter search may be the right path. The primary filter should be behind the left rear wheel against the body. Support the car and take the wheel off is easiest way to change it.

Speaking solely from experience with working on and tuning different types of carburetors,mostly racing type cars,a carb engine that dies on a slope is starving for fuel,obviously,and more often than not it's either the float level and drop,or needles and seats.It is critical to measure and set the drop of the floats to prevent fuel starvation,as well as the maximum level allowed by the floats,to prevent flooding out the top.Needles and seats regulate the fuel coming into the carb based on the float level,so they are tightly intertwined with one another.Later versions of carburetors have high flow,and/or spring loaded needles and seats for extreme 4x4 climbing,so that starvation isn't an issue.Check fuel pressure from the pump,as well as volume,Volume is as important as pressure.You can measure volume easily with an empty jug and a helper to crank the engine over while you hold the fuel line into the jug,and watch how much fuel it's pumping.Easy and cheap check,plus you can watch what kind of pressure the pump is developing.6 psi is about the standard for carbs at the inlet.Racing engines can run 7-8 psi fuel pressure.Good luck.