Toyota Sequoia's had a lot of problems abs wise> #1 clear codes with a factory software scanner. then drive it to see what returns. I can not see a brake booster setting 3 codes that are ABS/VSC problems #2 how does the brake pedal feel If it is high and hard pedal then the booster is bad if the engine speeds rise as pedal is depress and you hear escaping air the booster is bad. #3 ABS/VSC are supplemental systems to the normal braking soit will take longer to stop and a possible skid could occur. but you will stop leave more traveling space you should be fine.
SOURCE: 2002 Toyota Sequoia power brake booster % master cylinder are bad
Mr. Clark:
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.
SOURCE: 1989 ford thunderbird std brake system vacuum booster install?
There are a Couple of Different Variations on the Boosters. Make sure that you have the Correct one First. If you do, Just work it, Some of the Rods are Removeable by the Way.
SOURCE: 2005 toyota 4runner brake booster
There isn't a requirement to replace a brake booster at any time unless:
1. The brake booster did go bad. ( Rare part to go bad, but not impossible)
2. There is a recall or defective part. ( in this case, the dealer shouldn't charge you)
Can't hurt to get a second opinion for another shop. Plus, they will not charge a crazy price like the dealer. There are experienced mechanics outside of the dealership.
SOURCE: 1997 Ford F-350 Brake pedal gets ******* second pump
cracked vacume hose or vacume pump i had this problem with my transit mine was on back of alternater
SOURCE: toyota 4 runner brake booster noise
if you can see brake fluid around the booster then yes it is most definitely not right, but sometimes these can fail without any fluid noticable, the visible fluid could mean that the brake master cylinder is failing & this will have an adverse affect on the booster power & performance, check your brake master cylinder first as this is a much simpler & easier repair than the brake booster & can be done at home on a flat drive or or street even, a Haynes manual is invaluable for the home mechanic & i recommend you get one as soon as you can as this will help you diagnose the problems with your vehicle before going to a mechanic/garage, if it is the brake booster at fault then i suggest you go to your local scrapper/breakers yard armed with tools & the Haynes/Chilton's Manual (Depending on which side of the pond you are from) & remove the brake booster from a now deceased Toyota 4Runner & remove the brake booster & master cylinder in one should only cost you a few Quid or Bucks & replace the part once your vehicle is back at home, once the parts have been replaced the brake system will need to be bled so that there is no air in the brake lines, this can be easily done with two people at home, Jack up one corner, remove that wheel & then just crack off the bleed nipple of the brake line Putting a bit of clear hose over the nipple to catch the excess brake fluid in a jug etc & have a friend push down slowly on the pedal, when only fluid comes out with no air then the system is bled for that wheel, Check the level in the brake master cylinder & repeat the process for the other 3 corners/wheels Once done your brake pedal should fell firm & Not spongy, If you get a spongy feeling when braking after this then there is still air in the brake lines & the system needs to be bled again, of course if you have done it right then your brakes should feel firm underfoot. Please don't forget to rate me, regards, Paul.
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The power 5-volts reference is shorted to ground or battery positive.
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