There's no knock in idle, only when moving. As I speed up the knocking speeds up, I slow down, it slows down.
SOURCE: 1988 Ford Bronco II 2.9 V6 5 sp. trans. Air power steering
Pull the vacuum hose from the map sensor and if your idle smooths out change the map sensor. About a $20 fix.
SOURCE: 89 ford F150 4x4 302 stalls on exceleration.
There are a couple of things you can check. Ford used two fuel filters on some vehicles, but you don't see much information about the one mount on the frame because they expect it to last for the life of the vehicle. The one of coarse is on the firewall and you probably changed that.
To find out if you have the second filter and it's more likely that you do than don't.
Look along the inside of the frame between your high pressure pump and the fuel tank[mine is where the skid plate that protects the transmission is located and I have to drop the skid plate to reach it] see if the fuel lines run into a round looking plastic box that is mounted behind a metal shield, if you see it you will need to remove the shield to reach it. It's necessary to unscew the canister and replace the cartridge which most auto parts stores carry.I found it easier to work on if I remove the fuel lines then took the filter unit out, but you may not have to.
Another thing you can check is the fuel pressure regulator. Especially if you have the vacuum type regulator, because the diaphram can develop a pin hole that leaks raw fuel into the intake manifold and cause alot of squirrelly problems. The leak can eventually become bad enough to fill the cylinders with raw fuel and lock up the engine because unlike air liquid can not be compressed.
SOURCE: Engine knock...
Oil pressure might actually be a bit high for idle. High or low oil pressure in an older engine tends to be indicative of some serious issues. Oil pressure that is too high tends to be a clue that you have serious carbon build up. That aside, have you tried running a higher octane fuel, or perhaps adding an octane booster to your normal grade? Pinging can become knocking in a badly worn engine. One recommendation: At your next oil change try substituting a quart of marvel mystery oil or lucas engine oil treatment in place of one quart of your normal oil. Both have some pretty good track records for helping to free up sticking valves and break up carbon in older engines. I'm an old timer myself, and I personally swear by Marvel for older engines. There is no "rebuild in a can" but Marvel comes close. Give those a shot, let me know what happens.
SOURCE: 92 Ford F150 4.9L. starts good, idles rough, dies at slow speeds
4.9 litre ?? you having a laugh its a 10ton truck engine not a pick up -global warming machine,remove the pump/sender unit and check the gauze filter also look inside tank for a something floating around ,i think the idles is not a related problem to the vehicle losing power but their is a possibility you could have a problem with the little vac operated thing on the fuel injector line that allows the fuel through only when the engine is running
SOURCE: 2003 Ford Expedition rear A/C has a knocking sound
You need to replace the blend door actuator, a very common problem on the Expys. Remove the passenger side interior panel, between the middle and rear seats. You will also have to unbolt the seatbelt - overall not a hard job. Just remember to have the gears on the new actuator set in the correct position as the one you pulled out or the door will tend to overtravel. ]
There are 2 actuators in that area, just to on the rear air to find out which one is making the problem.
The gears in the actuator are plastic and strip very easily, making the sound. I found a replacement at Advance Auto, but Im sure most parts houses have them.
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