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Anonymous Posted on Apr 28, 2014

How do I fix a knocking sound in my 89 bronco?

There's no knock in idle, only when moving. As I speed up the knocking speeds up, I slow down, it slows down.

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 06, 2008

SOURCE: 1988 Ford Bronco II 2.9 V6 5 sp. trans. Air power steering

Pull the vacuum hose from the map sensor and if your idle smooths out change the map sensor. About a $20 fix.

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Hayward Cowan

  • 59 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 10, 2009

SOURCE: 89 ford F150 4x4 302 stalls on exceleration.

There are a couple of things you can check. Ford used two fuel filters on some vehicles, but you don't see much information about the one mount on the frame because they expect it to last for the life of the vehicle. The one of coarse is on the firewall and you probably changed that.
To find out if you have the second filter and it's more likely that you do than don't.
Look along the inside of the frame between your high pressure pump and the fuel tank[mine is where the skid plate that protects the transmission is located and I have to drop the skid plate to reach it] see if the fuel lines run into a round looking plastic box that is mounted behind a metal shield, if you see it you will need to remove the shield to reach it. It's necessary to unscew the canister and replace the cartridge which most auto parts stores carry.I found it easier to work on if I remove the fuel lines then took the filter unit out, but you may not have to.
Another thing you can check is the fuel pressure regulator. Especially if you have the vacuum type regulator, because the diaphram can develop a pin hole that leaks raw fuel into the intake manifold and cause alot of squirrelly problems. The leak can eventually become bad enough to fill the cylinders with raw fuel and lock up the engine because unlike air liquid can not be compressed.

Anonymous

  • 51 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 06, 2009

SOURCE: Engine knock...

Oil pressure might actually be a bit high for idle. High or low oil pressure in an older engine tends to be indicative of some serious issues. Oil pressure that is too high tends to be a clue that you have serious carbon build up. That aside, have you tried running a higher octane fuel, or perhaps adding an octane booster to your normal grade? Pinging can become knocking in a badly worn engine. One recommendation: At your next oil change try substituting a quart of marvel mystery oil or lucas engine oil treatment in place of one quart of your normal oil. Both have some pretty good track records for helping to free up sticking valves and break up carbon in older engines. I'm an old timer myself, and I personally swear by Marvel for older engines. There is no "rebuild in a can" but Marvel comes close. Give those a shot, let me know what happens.

alicantecoli

Colin Stickland

  • 22516 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2010

SOURCE: 92 Ford F150 4.9L. starts good, idles rough, dies at slow speeds

4.9 litre ?? you having a laugh its a 10ton truck engine not a pick up -global warming machine,remove the pump/sender unit and check the gauze filter also look inside tank for a something floating around ,i think the idles is not a related problem to the vehicle losing power but their is a possibility you could have a problem with the little vac operated thing on the fuel injector line that allows the fuel through only when the engine is running

Anonymous

  • 50 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 17, 2011

SOURCE: 2003 Ford Expedition rear A/C has a knocking sound

You need to replace the blend door actuator, a very common problem on the Expys. Remove the passenger side interior panel, between the middle and rear seats. You will also have to unbolt the seatbelt - overall not a hard job. Just remember to have the gears on the new actuator set in the correct position as the one you pulled out or the door will tend to overtravel. ]
There are 2 actuators in that area, just to on the rear air to find out which one is making the problem.
The gears in the actuator are plastic and strip very easily, making the sound. I found a replacement at Advance Auto, but Im sure most parts houses have them.

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Knock under car while pulling away or slowing down

Does it sound like the engine? Can you localize it at all to the front or back, left or right? Does it seem to match the speed - knocks faster the faster you go?
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Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear

TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

1helpful
1answer

Making knocking sound

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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1answer

V6 knocking noise

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

0helpful
1answer

The knock sounds like right under the driver side and mainly happens when your slowing down

Might check your brake disc(rust, end of the pad) and/or check if your tires are unbalanced at the mentioned speed. Unbalanced tires might cause knock/vibrating
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Upon starting truck in morning after sitting all nite there is a knocking/rapping sound coming from engine for about 5-10 seconds and once in drive and moving at a slow speed it goes away and does not come...

most likey a wrist pin bad or cam bearing and last a rod bearing you need a stethascope to locate it ehrn it's knocking. could even be a pully or belt tensioner.
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1998 volvo v70 heater comes on for 3 seconds then knocks off with lights flashing heater motor seems to sound funny

check under the filter.. maybe some stuff in there that's slowing down the motor and setting off the slow speed sender unit..or could be bad bearing or brush on motor.
try to move it and listen for scraping or clicking noise - bad bearing...

stuff, as in you would never believe me if I told you.
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Idle fluctuates fast then slow. Knocks at 30-40 mph. gas mileage down

your ECU is faulty.
New ECU and voila problem fixed

ohh ECU= engine control unit

secondhand with do just fine.

get it fitted by professional
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